the great big south

Today, we leave our comfy (my 2nd favorite hostel as of yet) abode in Dunedin, and head towards kaka point where Brent and I will be commencing our first of two farm stays before heading up to Te Anau to base ourselves from as we hike the Fiordland National Park tracks.

Yesterday, we finally finished shopping for our 'farm gear'. It's a mix of flannel ghetto and bum out active wear. That's the best combination, no?

Brent will be supporting his green PVC rain coat (these things reek), a classic brown/blue flannel shirt, with a grey tee underneath to accent the look, a pair of blue jeans and wonderful black gum boots with blue accents.

I will be displaying my farm charm with my bright yellow, far too big for this figure, rain coat a classic fuzzy grey hoodie, a blue tee shirt that speaks about my days as a roller derby championship in '81 (ya know, when I was 1!!), grey zip off activewear pants with 2 stripes down the legs a la Adidas, and my own black with blue accent gum boots.

We both wanted to don the flannel/jeans look - but I couldn't find anything remotely close to my size. Shopping here was difficult for this. And we were looking for cheap gear, nothing costly. I mean, it's too scoop up poo and stuff. But we also wanted to spare our tramping gear.

Now, the gum boots. I must tell you how sad I actually am. I think it was in Whanganui where we went to a Warehouse to check out clothes for farm work and we saw the BEST gum boots EVER on sale!!! Themed gum boots. Like you could get really ghetto floral patterns, skull and cross bones, girl and boy accent themes, chocolate buttons, jelly beans and my favorite - the chocolate themed gum boots. It was like looking at two rubber boots with pictures of 'pot of gold' chocolates all over them. Why would anyone MAKE these? They were so ghetto fashion that I wanted to buy a pair. But sadly, someone suggested that we wait to make the purchase and these gum boots were never found again.

*sigh*

I have since forgiven said person, but it was a sad day. Worse, those ghetto gum boots were cheaper then the ones we had to purchase.

Had to purchase - key phrase. Neither of us found our proper size. So I look forward to getting stuck in the mud and accidentally stepping out of said gum boot and into a pile of manure. :) Just like when I was a kid and my boots would get stuck in the snow.

The south island. It's been amazing. I really can't explain how beautiful the mountains are. And these people - they are so used to it, they barely take notice. I guess that happens after living day in and day out with that type of view - but how wonderful it is!!! I would never grow tired of such a beautiful sight.

All around us. Snow capped mountains on every stretch of road we've been on. I keep taking photographs, but they don't capture the moment. They try, but they just can't.

And now, with the 'new' car, the pictures taken while driving are all being photographed through the windows. :(

Our ghetto new car. Sgt. McClaughwd. Three out of four power windows don't work - leaving the back seat's passenger window as the only hope of fresh air (and this car bakes under the sun, so the summer driving is going to suck! - Huntington had AC which was a great bonus). The gas gauge on this car is possessed. Dear Victor who sold us this car said that he had just finished fixing the gas gauge. He was a sweet man, but could not help the poor terminally ill gas guage. So we basically have to fill up the tank and monitor our kilometers, and make a best guess as to when we might need to fill up. Classic.

It just wouldn't be right if everything ran smoothly now would it.

The drivers in New Zealand are crazy. Like insane. They have death wishes, each and every one of them. They want to drive 100km/hr even on turns where they post 25km/hr - and it's wonky to turn it going 40. And you know that the country knows that they are terrible at driving. They have the craziest ad campaigns for tired drivers and speeding. Everywhere you go there is a new and unique sign (yet to see a repeat) asking if you're tired to pull over - but doing it in a creative way. Then there are the poignant speed campaign billboards. And one really eery intersection commercial on tv right now talking about bad choices is like playing roulette.

Learning how to drive the stick has not been without its SUPER stressful moments. One time driving into Dunedin, we came upon a hill and I kept passing this one RV and then falling down on speed (due to the hill/incline) and by the end of the passing lane the RV would pass me once again. And it sucked, cause he was travelling between 20-30kms/hr under the limit on the straight parts. So I finally pass him once again then make my way back into the left lane (so others can pass if they want). I quickly come up behind an uber slow transport but can't pass him. There was another car coming up the passing lane, and out of courtesy, I didn't want to slow him down at all. But he didn't pick up speed fast enough. So I ended up having to slam on the brakes. When I went to downshift, I slipped into the wrong gear, and all of a sudden we're crawling at 30 clicks, cause I can't pick up speed. So Mr. RV passes us, yet again, as does every other car on the roadway.

The hills are freaky. I don't know how a manual car performs, but what if I can't make it up the hill??? Will I start to roll backwards???

Currently, my greatest fear.

Then there is Dunedin. Home to the steepest street of the world!!! So imagine, if it has the steepest, it probably has a lot of runner ups! Yes it does.

Yesterday was probably the worst driving moment - getting stuck on an uphill at a set of lights. I blew a red light once the other day (it's illegal here) simply because I did not want to have to deal with rolling back when the light turned green again. We're talking pretty steep hill here and one inexperienced driver. So the light is red, I'm the 2nd or third car. Stopping is pretty easy, and if you roll back, you just put your emergency brake on.

Light goes green. I release the hand brake and start to release the clutch as I'm gasing up. In first gear. Should be driving forward, only rolling backwards.

Uh oh.

I try a second time, after the car stalls (oops). Same thing, rolling backwards. I had to give up at this point, cause I was about to hit the car behind me. I put the flashers on and wave to the driver behind us, who then waves to the person behind her because it's a busy monday afternoon and there is a line up of cars in our lane. I just sat there and waited. What could we do? I just sat there and waited through 2 green lights with our emergency flashers on. Once there was no traffic behind us, I just gunned the car and made our way around the corner.

Hilly streets + standard vehicle = headache for me and Brent :(


Touring the South

So, we pick up our story as we leave Havelock for Kaikoura. Nice drive. Leaving the snow capped mountains of Mt. Richmond Forest Park and heading for the east coast and the ocean once again. It was sad to see the mountains fade in the rear view mirror, but wonderful once the ocean was visible through the rolling hills.

The rocky coast provided some spectacular views, and some beautiful sights once again as snow capped mountains started to peak over the rocky cliffs to our right. Some of the mountains on the south island are almost forgotten about since the southern alps share the same land. Yet these majestic wonders peak over 2500m. On the north island, Mt. Taranaki is a big deal and sits just above 2500m (2518m). On the south island on the NE side, you have beautiful peaks sitting between 2200-2600m high, yet they don't compare to the height of the alps and Mt. Cook. It's incredible. These mountains are surreal. Beautiful.

We spent some time driving and stopping along the coast, to spot some seals and sea lions tanning under the clear skies and also just to take in the views. It was a nice drive.

Kaikoura is a very touristy town. Not very big at all. We only spent one night, which was enough to get an idea of the area. There is a lot of tramping out in the northern parts which we will revisit in the summertime. Most of the parks are sitting in avalanche warnings anyway - wouldn't be too much fun. And with the way this trip is working out for Brent and myself, I would not be surprised if we were on a mountain that had an avalanche fall on our track.

Spent some time on the beach just enjoying the fresh air and clear day. Listening to the waves coming in and pushing their way forward with mighty force. Slowly slithering down the rocks along the beach. It was a wonderful sound.

We treated ourselves to burgers once again at night. Mainly because we found a cheap place, and also because the burgers we had after the QCT, although yummy, didn't satisfy the burger craving. These ones did. Nice and juicy. I ordered a hawaiin again, but did not get pineapple in the burger. After asking about that, they grilled me up three rings to top up my burger. Satisfaction.

We spent the night in the "Dusky Lodge" hostel, as suggested by Asha from Blue Moon. Didn't like it at all. One of our least favorites. Too big. We like the smaller intimate hostels. The bigger ones are just seady. People are messy and don't clean up after themselves (even though there are signs everywhere) and they just feel grimey. I lived in residence in University and I loved it. So it has nothing to do with a lack of desire to live in a communal setting. We did luck out with a tv in our room, so we just chilled out, snacked on some duettes and watched Batman Begins (well, I slept, Brent watched the movie). The other big pro of this hostel is the view from the back balcony. Amazing mountain view. We spent time at sunset just taking in the environment and the sights.

The next day we set out for Christchurch. Thinking that we would get a different vibe in a big city on the south island, we were excited. We started the drive out along the ocean which was wonderful, driving through rock tunnels and watching seals once again. Another clear and wonderful day to drive. Can't get them on the trails so much, but love them when we are blessed with them.

Every time we enter a city, we are quickly reminded how much this trip is not just a trip to see New Zealand. This trip is not about seeing the cities in the least. Upon entering Christchurch's city boundaries, we both had the same vibe from the city. I mean, we come from Toronto, so we know what it's like to live in a Metropolitan city. And it's amazing, but to truly appreciate a city I feel you have to spend a great deal of time in it and live the culture that is distinct to the city. Then you'll know what's great about it. Otherwise, sometimes it just feels like a rut. So really, neither of us enjoyed the city. Spent the night at a nice hostel, met a Canadian working there (who has only spent his time in big cities - but he comes from a small town in Saskatchewan, so it makes more sense to me). We weren't in love with the hostel, but it had one of the most comfortable beds we have slept in. So, that's how it wins some points.

We ditched the car at the hostel and walked into the city centre to check out the sights of C-town. There was Cathedral square which is interesting, but we ended up spending most of our time in the souvenir shops. They aren't like the shops back home with 80% plastiquey crap to purchase. These souvenir shops look like high end stores sometimes and they have some quality products to sell. Mind you, it wouldn't be the same without your cheap magnets and bungy jumping sheep suction cup memorabilia. Checked out the i-site (which usually means finding out where the grocery stores and warehouse are - we fill up with sale items (muesli bars and tramping food) in the big cities, and we were still shopping for our farm gear - hence the warehouse need). Then spent some time at yet another BNZ, trying to fix more problems that the person who set up our account has managed to squeeze into our trip. This time, I think we figured it out, AND we're making uber interest now so that'll help with some of the extra costs we have run into (ie: Sgt. McClaughwd and Huntington's surgeries and sudden death).

Walked around the city centre and decided that it was time to go out for breakfast once again. We tried this once in Auckland, and it was rather unenjoyable (the sausages really did look like they were made out of wood bark). Being Christchurch, we thought it would have more of an english influence and we might find a super great breakfast place that did all the fixings including baked beans. Yum.

The girl who helped us at the BNZ suggested a place, and we compared the menu with another place Brent found advertised on a city map we had (the ad which sparked the idea of a breakfast date).

We spent the evening shopping and then chilled out and ate dinner (soup & crackers, yum) with a couple from Ireland.

The next morning we got up super early and heading out to the breakfast place. It was a nice place. Got to order myself an omelette, while Brent enjoyed a big full breakfast, complete with eggs, meat, a lump of hashbrown/potato thing (it was yummy) and pancakes. We would never order pancakes at a restaurant back home (only exception is IHOP) because we make it at home all the time (i miss banana pancakes). But it was a real treat for Brent to enjoy these fluffy cakes. For an additional $2.10 you can enjoy them with Canadian maple syrup. Heh, heh. We think the waitress thought we were American or something because she asked if we wanted any sauce and before I could ask for tomato sauce (their version of ketchup, but blegh), she asked if I wanted any ketchup. I perked up so much, I think she really did believe we were American. It was delicious though - and proper tasting. Tomato sauce has a distinct flavor.

Anyway, so yummy breakfast, and we're on our way - yet again. Pack up the car and look at the map. What are our options?

We decide to venture inland to Lake Tekapo. The day is slightly dreary, so no hope of seeing the mountains which sucks, cause we were finally approaching the alps. Oh well. Decided to drive out there and spend a night to check out the church of the Good Shepherd.

We were about to venture to this small town along the east coast when we decided against it and simply took the inland highway out west. Greatest decision ever. Driving along, I see a sign "Cookie Time, 300 m". I was asking Brent what he thought that meant, when we suddenly passed the Cookie Time factory. We quickly turned around and made sure not to miss this factory!

Cookie Time cookies. Like Mrs. Fields or something back home. Nothing too special, but we've never had one before and there are advertisements for them at every corner store. Anyway, this is also the company that makes Bumper Bars, a bar that we eat on the trail for breakfast (as close to Cliff bars as they come, yet with dried fruit and huge chunks of chocolate - best breakfast EVER!!). So we decided to stock up on factory priced bumper bars. Get inside, and found out they also make the "One Square Meal" bars - the other breakfast bar we eat, which is scientifically proven to be the most balanced meal/bar on earth. Eating two of these bars is equivalent to 1/3 of all your daily intake of everything!!! We lucked out and were able to buy wholesale packs of 4 flavours of bumper bars, one pack of OSM and one 10pack package of cookie time triple chocolate cookies. Oh yeah. Sugar baby!!

This factory came as a complete surprise to us. So it was a wonderful day. They even heated up two cookies for us at the store so that we could enjoy one right away. Mmmmmm.

Then we drove to Tekapo. Unpacked at the BBH hostel and set out for the church.

I'm sorry to say this, but we were both disappointed. Not because it's not beautiful, but we didn't expect this church - which is a HUGE tourist highlight, to be right beside the road. From the pictures you see in a travel guide or from pictures most tourists take, you get the impression that this quiet little church is on a deserted road in the most picturesque place on Earth, by a crisp blue lake surrounded by beautiful flowers and snow capped mountains. The things you can hide in a photograph.

Actually, it's just off the sealed road (so not expecting that), and we were there at the worst time. Overcast skies, so no real mountain view, the lake is at its lowest level in years (believe it or not, that is one area of NZ that hasn't seen a lot of rain) and the floral arrangement has been replaced by dead shrubs and tussock.

Serene.

We'll be through the area again in the summer, so we'll compare before and after photographs of the area.

We spent time walking around the rest of the town, but there isn't much to it. 300 residents and motivated by tourism. Quick trip. Spent time at the hostel playing scrabble and reading. This is where we crossed paths with a backpacker newspaper that had a page 2 article about a Canadian couple titled "These boots were made for walking" - talking about this couple in NZ for 9 months here to walk around. The article didn't go into great detail about too much of what they were up to except for day walks and glass blowing. That was disappointing. We kept thinking 'we should have been that couple in the newspaper'. Our year long trip is ALL ABOUT WALKING!!! Well, it's supposed to be all about tramping, once the injuries fade away. And so far, I don't believe our story is less then exciting and unpredictable. And the article even posted their blog url.

Sadness. Maybe one day, we'll be featured.

Anyway. Right in the middle of cooking dinner, I looked out the window and noticed that the sun was breaking through the cloud. So we decided to literally put the dinner on the back burner and jump in the car to drive out to the look out area near the lake. We enjoyed sunset by the water and the evening kissed mountains. Beautiful.

Still couldn't find any ducks to feed our old bread to that night. We had spotted some earlier, then they disappeared. Oh well. Lost that bread in the fire, so no more need to find any takers. :)

Back for soup, some cards and slumber.

Next morning, well, this was the frosty morning where we cleaned off the car with the logs. Poor Sir Huntington's death. Learning how to drive stick. And driving to Wanaka. (If you want a detailed version of this story, please read the blog post titled "This is the story of the death of Sir Huntington the 3rd")

Wanaka. Ski bunny town. Two great ski fields surround this town, so it's like a mini Whistler I guess you could say. We drove into the town, parked our new friend and walked around quaint
little Wanaka. Visited ye olde i-site and just enjoyed being away from fiery cars, sadly without mountain views.

We spent two nights at the hostel we chose in order to spend time at Puzzling world the next day. This was for Brent. Funny enough, you really can do Puzzling World in like 2 hours. Oh well, we tried to spend as much time there as possible. We got to PW pretty soon after it opened. Wandered through their illusions room, room of following faces (really freaky!!!), did the ames room and the tilted room. It was all really interesting and fun. Then we spent some time running around their wooden maze trying to find our way to the 4 towers. There are two ways of doing the maze. Following their colour order, or just finding and climbing the four towers anyway you can. We opted for the 'anyway you can' route first, but then never found the will to return for the more challenging adventure.

The best part of the PW was this lounge area at the start where they have booths, tables and chairs with all the different puzzles they sell at the tables for people to play with. We would break up the day with moments to sit here and play with the puzzles. It was fun.

Back at the hostel, same thing, they had a bunch of these puzzles to play with. Everyone would try to get them right.

The treat of the moment was buying a block of cheese. The only other time we've purchased cheese (outside of the crackers & cheese stuff) has been in New Plymouth when we made the lasagna bake. This time we used the cheese to melt onto pasta one night, to grill onto toast the next night, and to add flavour to our sandwiches for the road the next day. Cheese is such a great treat, it's hard to explain when you're used to having it every day back home. It's expensive here, so you have to be in a place long enough to go through it without spoiling it in a hot car between towns/cities.

The melted cheese on toast was my favorite. So delicious. We clearly miss having real cheese in our diets.

Spent the evening with others around the tv, where we met another woman who was tramping in NZ and she told us about her experiences on Stewart Island's 10 day tramp. We have so much to look forward to. :)

From Wanaka, we drove out to Oamaru for a night before heading to Dunedin. We stayed at Swaggers backpackers that night, which was great cause it's this homely little place with three rooms and a camp mum named Agra. She was funny, cookey and very interesting. She was stepping out for a coffee with a friend of hers and told Brent and I to hop into the car with her. She took us on a driving tour of the area, famous for its blue penguins that come ashore every night. She took us up and down these streets and down laneways full of deep pot holes pointing out all the hotspots where the penguins like to hang out. It was a neat experience.

After being dropped back off at the hostel (at the top of a hill by the way - my introduction to extremely hilly towns with stick shift), we decided to walk around the old town. This area is kind of a mix between the Distillery districk and Liberty Village BEFORE they were converted to condo towns. Beautiful and rustic, slightly deserted and very interesting. This is where the penguins walk to. There is a night club on the corner, and at night you could be outside enjoying a beer, all the while a little blue penguin wobbles by your feet. It's the most fascinating thing.

We drove out to see the Yellow-eyed penguins who come out from the ocean in the early evening. It was an interesting site to venture to. You had to stay off the beach in order to let the penguins safely make their way to their nests for the night, but there were viewing platforms all around, and an expert penguin guy who volunteers with the DOC. He would be there to point out penguins waddling up from the water so that everyone would know where to look. These animals would just walk right by you, on the other side of a rail, but so close.

We went back to the hostel where we spent some time eating dinner and really just killing time for the evening 'show', the blue penguins who come out at night. You could pay 20$ to see some of them waddle up underneath bright lights, OR walk along the water and the docks and get a closer look at the beautiful penguins.

Brent and I set out around 8pm that night. We did nothing more then cross the train tracks when you could start to hear them calling out in the night. They are NOT quiet. You're there walking in the dark and you can see little speckles of white dotting the area ahead from you. Suddenly it moves. It waddles. And you know, there's this penguin right there in front of you. Right at your feet. All around you. It is such a wonderful experience. We walked down the dock towards the blue penguin colony location (the 20$ joint) and all around the buildings were like 100 penguins calling out to one another, surrounding you. It truly was spectacular.

Next up, Dunedin. Drove out to the city the next day. This time Brent and I had a different feeling from the city (which boasts 120,000 people). We liked it. For "big" cities as far as NZ go, our favorites are definitely New Plymouth and Dunedin thus far.

The only thing wrong with the city has got to be the hilly-ness.

Sadly, I must cut this blog short and save our Dunedin stories for another time, as the time is quickly escaping me. We must pack up and be on our way. We're off today for our first of two one week farm stays. The first farm is deep into lambing. Should be wonderful.

I am finally going to be able to play with the baby sheepies!

:)