Each day, we wait a little bit longer

So, minor setback on our tramping trip. We are in the ever so gorgeous town of Te Anau - the home of the DOC Fiordland National Park visitor centre - and for us, the town we chose to base ourselves out of while we tramp through the beautiful fiords.

Magical. You can't describe the mountain views from the quiet little hostel we are currently staying in. It's Rosie's backpackers. A place that only houses up to 10 people. This family has opened their home to travelers. Their bedrooms are right across from your very own.

It's been quite a wonderful time here already. Rosie and her husband Alistair are fantastic, and trampers themselves. Actually, both have served time with the DOC as hut wardens. Oh, and did I mention that Alistair is actually an avalanche detector - oh, and the best in the country?? Doesn't hurt to have an expert around.

It was quite amusing the first night we were here, and we got to talking with Alistair about tramping the Milford track. After about 15minutes of talking to us about all the avalanche paths that it crosses I think it gutted both Brent and myself. That was the point where we looked at one another from across the room and said 'we don't really have to do the Milford track'. "Oh, but it's beautiful. You'll be fine!", Alistair exclaims. Safe. Rapid snow blowing me off the side of a mountain is not what I would call fine.

But avalanche expert - amazing. Before each track, we'll get the most up to date information from Alistair. He's super.

Avalanches. The reality of the south island and the beginning of spring. Actually, snow fall can occur throughout the year, so can avalanche warnings. There is no real avoidance of the situation. Difference is that if you tramp these hikes in the peak season (starts Oct. 28th), you could be flown over (by helicopter) 'areas of concern' at your own cost. If you're that desperate to just avoid the last avalanche that came down yet eager to test your luck on the rest of the track - be my guest.

Sadly, this is the part of the country I have dreamed about for years. And to hear the reality that our hikes are extremely weather dependent is concerning. Water, we thought, would be our greatest concern. You know, torrential rains. But now, avalanche paths.

Kepler track - a gorgeous loop track that takes up to 4 days to hike. Beautiful mountain ranges overlooking two lakes in the fiords. One day takes you through 9 avalanche zones. Alistair says the snow will be off those peaks in a few days, so we'll be able to hike that one second.

You think 9 zones is bad. Wait until you hear about the Routeburn track that has 32 avalanche zones through the trail. We could hike in two days on one side, then return, drive around to the other end to hike in one day and back out. Thus safely taking us through the track without entering the dreadful 32 avalanche zones on the track. Zones we would have to cross twice as this is not a loop, and we would have to return to our car.

Then there is the Milford track, the winner with 56 avalanche zones crossing throughout the track. A simple three day tramp can be one of the most beautiful, and also most deadly tramps. 56 avalanche zones, NONE of which are monitored.

The highway from Te Anau to Milford is just over 100kms long. One of the most beautiful drives that they say could take up to a day. A highway which has a very long 'no stopping' zone, due to land slip and avalanche concerns. A highway that the country spends 1.5 Million dollars a year to monitor with avalanche teams to ensure that no lives are lost in the event of an avalanche.

The Milford Track has no funding for this type of monitoring. It would cost over 10,000$ a week to monitor that track alone. Funds which the DOC cannot afford. A conservancy already deeply suffering from insufficient funding. Instead, during the peak season, hut wardens are located in each hut, equipped with radios - and information can be given to each tramper as they pass through the area. That quite possibly saves lives, and is a much cheaper alternative.

The unfortunate reality to tramping in such a wild environment. You don't have to worry about the bears or cougars out here, but mother nature herself. As beautiful as that waterfall developing off the side of a rock face might be to a tour bus passenger, it could spell disaster for someone about to meet it on their path.

The reality of the risk. Not something that we are taking lightly, as we plan to start on a tramp that passes through no avalanche zones. You know, only the flooding zones. Good times!

Then there is our set back.

I am sick. Uber sick.

It all started on the farm. A simple cough. Thought I could shake it off, as it followed other patterns of colds I have had in the past. Then we get to Invercargill (nothing special to mention about this city really - dive like, we were in a sketchy part of town). The coughing worsened. The second day in Invercargill we decided to go for a day hike, which I ended up trying to bail out of up to 4 times due to body aches that were making it hard to walk. Fear of collapsing was in my head.

Hoped up with Advils (don't worry, I only had one - but that was enough), I had the energy to drive us to TeAnau, where I only got worse. Chills and hot sweats plagued my days and nights. I struggled to sleep through the nights. Everyone trying to provide me with the best remedies. One girl (Hannah) made me a special tea (with whiskey - heh heh), Rosie has been offering me several different types of lozenges and cough syrup (the smell didn't make me want to jump and drink it down) and hot liquids. All the while, I wonder if I am keeping anyone else up at night (although apparently the walls are almost sound proof, so no one has been hearing my helpless cough attacks through the night). The usual muscle aches from flu like illnesses.

But if I was going to be sick, this is the place to be sick in. A beautiful home where I feel at home, with a view to die for. A house completely surrounded by the fiordland national park. Gorgeous.

This has delayed our departure for two reasons. Muscle pains/energy and lung restriction. The coughing will probably linger for a few weeks (I'm susceptible to long term coughing), but when I carry a full pack on, I can sometimes feel restricted with my breathing. Deep breaths with a full pack can sometimes be painful. Not something you want to contend with on weak lungs. Then there is the fact that I probably haven't been able to carry my weight due to weakness.

It's a shame. We just spent 12 wonderful days on the farm with the McLay's where we were eating regularly and getting our bodies ready to set back out on the trails. Then I get sick and lose my appetite.

Boo.

So today was supposed to be our first day, but we will now try to leave on Friday, October 3rd. Two more nights. We'll see.

We'll hike out, return here for a night in between each hike, then set back out the next day to tackle a new trail. All this will take up at least a month. 6 full tramps - or partially attempted tramps depending on avalanche concerns. The Hump Ridge, Greenstone-Caples track, Hollyford, Routeburn, Milford and the Kepler track. Following this, we will splurge on a fabulous overnight cruise in Doubtful sound (on special this month) - one of many parts of this park that are inaccessible by foot or road.

That's the plan. Let's just see what adventures head our way! :)


Outside of that, some things that have crossed our minds over the last few days.

A shout out to the McLay clan. We were thinking about you guys when we watched Piha Rescue on Monday night. That also reminded us about some other things we did together that really meant a lot to us. This includes (but is not limited to): the Bird play with Naomi, Josiah and Susan on our second night. Brent playing cricket with Josiah, Isabel, and Esther. Watching Josiah and Reuben play cricket together. Coralie texting us as we drove through the Caitlins on our first day - we thought that was coo-el! Watching the sheep shearing. Singing choir songs with the kids at the bench - which is also why I have the "Talk to the Animals" song in my head an awful lot! Pumpkin Soup. Yummmm. :)

I tried out Huntington's key on Sgt McClaughwd the other day. Alarmingly, the car started. Which has led me to believe that manual vehicles are prime targets for theft. I believe they could start with a paper clip if someone tried.

Then again, maybe it's just our special car.

We finally made contact with the Primus reps in New Zealand and should see a new part for our camp stove show up by courier by early afternoon. Yay!!! It worked for about 4-5 meals, then pfffffft! It's a complicated stove with certain key parts unable to be taken apart except by a manufacturer. So if this part solves our problems, we're golden and could be eating hot meals in the Fiords!!! (something we actually weren't planning on - but with my cold/illness I also couldn't live off of dry noodles for too long - would be hard on me poor little throat)

Realizing that thus far, we have only spent money on THREE New Zealand 'attractions'. The caving trip (which was $125/person - but worth sooo much more), Puzzling world in Wanaka ($25 for two) and the trip up the elevator in Wanganui ($1/each). So, this helped us justify the little bit of extra money to take the Doubtful Sound cruise at the end of our time in the Fiordland NP. That and it was my #1 destination in this park, but I was silly and never realized you couldn't access it by any track. Oops.

We're off. To bed. Time to hack up a lung in a horizontal position.

Oh yeah - I'm at the state of heaving with the coughing. Just so you understand the severity of my problems. Ugh. Let's pray that in two days we're both fit enough to start the tramping. Thank God, Brent's not feeling sick yet. I think he might be immune to whatever I have - otherwise, I would imagine he'd be feeling it by now.

After the Fiords, we're off to Stewart Island for a ten day hike.

This time, it's all about the tramping!

I love it!!!