The Kepler track: A tramp in two takes

We were the first to set out on the alpine crossing in the morning. The weather was terrible. The gorgeous view that was offered the night before was blanketed in fog in the morning. The weather was rough. It was sleeting at the hut, and only turned worse the further up the mountain you tramped. We wanted an early start to test the waters.

It took us about an hour. We were about 20mins from the Mt. Luxmore junction - a side trip to the peak, in good weather you could probably enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the park. The sleet turned to snow as we climbed. Slowly there was a dusting on the ground. Then a thicker layer. Suddenly you're crossing an avalanche path in boot deep snow. My gut was turning as I looked up the mountain at the first of nine avalanche paths. There was a lot of fresh snow. The biggest concern for an avalanche occurs during or directly after new precipitation.

When we turned the corner, it was like hitting a wall. White out conditions. We could no longer see above us. The snow quickly turned to hail as the wind beat down on us with a mighty force. We couldn't face one another to speak. If you tried, you would be pelted in the face by the gale winds and the hail. It was like a blizzard from out of nowhere.

We had 8 more avalanche zones to pass through higher peaks. One alpine crossing along the ridge. Who knew how much snow had fallen that night. We weren't expecting it until the next day.


It had been just over a month since our last tramp. The mighty Queen Charlotte Track. One month and a bit since my fall and back injury, something I thought was behind me, until I started hiking this day. Plagued by illness, Brent and I just decided to hike no matter what. Neither of us feeling 100%. He had started to show signs of a nasty cold (not the flu though - so yay!). I was still on antibiotics and showing up and down signs of recovery. But we were tired of waiting, so we decided to make our way through the Kepler track. It was Monday, October 6th. We had a three night tramp ahead of us, and we were looking forward to it.

We actually lucked out quite a bit with the weather. It was a nice day on our first day of tramping. Clear views worth every agonizing footstep up the steep track to Luxmore Hut. Agonizing for both of us in different ways. Taking a month off of tramping was hard for the two of us. We are in the country for that exact reason. So needless to say, taking a month off then slapping a heavy pack onto your back is almost like the first hike all over again. You kind of remember all those muscles you had forgotten about over the last little while. By the end of the day they are screaming out to you for attention, yet you have to look past the pain, as you have several days of hiking ahead of you. No pain, no gain. At the same time, I was being re-introduced to back pain that I suffered on a fall on the QCT. At first, we both thought it was simply a bad case of bruising on the lower spine. Now, we suspect it might be more.

Needless to say, I now once again have an appointment with the Te Anau medical centre on Monday morning to have my back looked at. We both fear I may have done some deeper damage and thus far it is affecting our tramping. We just finished up a 5 day hike, but it wasn't an easy walk for me lower back. We'll keep you posted.

Despite any pain you might feel while tramping in New Zealand, there is no better pay off. The views are beyond spectacular - that is when the weather cooperates and allows you glimpses of your environment. This being our first tramp in Fiordland National Park, it surely didn't disappoint.

The ground was buoyant. There were times where you would step on the track and it would cushion your footing and bounce you right back up into another step. Amazing. Day one was a pretty big incline. After a 45minute hike from the long term car park (which we partially spent with another girl from our hostel who was out on a day hike) you enter the first part of the track. A lowland beech forest walk by lake Te Anau. Simple and easy. For an hour an a half you had a pretty easy day.

We stopped at Broad Bay, a camp site just before you start the incline. This was our first introduction to sandflies. The infamous fly, kind of like a black fly from back home, except possibly more annoying. If you are walking, they can't keep up with you. The moment you stop moving, they swarm you. We were to get used to these insects, as they enjoyed living in the park, and are found near moving water - which on the Kepler track is all around you. Also, they are a day time problem. They start to fade around dusk, which is kind of nice.

The track was beautiful and challenging. We crossed paths with a large amount of people, a mix of day hikers and possibly people just coming off the track from the other direction (it's a circuit track). We started to wonder if we were alone traveling in our direction towards Luxmore.

We pushed through from Broad Bay until just after these amazing Limestone Bluffs before we ate lunch. At the top of a set of stairs and ladder, we decided to stop and snack on our fabulous crackers and cheese. Up the stairs came another couple, Hadas & Adir from Israel. They were carrying large packs, which is our only indication if someone is going to do a day hike or an overnight tramp. They stopped to chat for a bit before heading down the trail ahead of us. Brent and I looked at one another. This is our first great walk (there are nine in NZ), this would be our 6th hut (which Brent says makes us break even - cause the hut pass is $90, and huts are generally $15/night) and it would be the first time that we have ever shared a hut with another person.

As the tramping season approaches, the trails are starting to show more signs of life.

We powered through the rest of the ascent before bumping into Hadas & Adir once again at the last sign before the hut. An indication that we were 45mins out. An unusual sign for a tramp. You don't usually get updated information as you hike. You usually only get timings for your hike at junctions.

This sign was situated at the very edge of the forest. An unusual boundary between the forest and tussock. Nothing gradual. You almost walk through a doorway of trees and bam, tussock. We're used to sub-alpine scrub or shrubs or something. This was an interesting boundary.

A windy walk through rolling tussock hills was the last leg of the tramp to Luxmore Hut. The views were stunning. The Murchison Mountains across the South Fiord were absolutely phenomenal. The view was striking and breathtaking. You hike for views like this. Pinching yourself everywhere you turn. People honestly pay a lot of money for views like this. All we had to do was buy an annual hut pass. (At least until Oct. 28th, when we can no longer tramp on the great walks without buying hut tickets - as the prices sky rocket for huts on great walks during the tramping season.)

Velvety emerald green ripples. Trees clinging to whatever stretch of limestone or clay they can find before slipping to the ground when their life can no longer be sustained. The scars of landslips left behind can be spotted from a mile away. Brown and grey rips through the green waves of the mountains. You can't put into words the way the fiords look. Sheer beauty. Tranquil world. Birds singing all around you during the day. It's quite spectacular.

And cold. It was very cold on the mountain.

We got to the hut, only to find another two hikers, Yakov and Dmitry - both from Israel (as were Hadas & Adir). This hut was quite amazing to look at. We have spent nights in great huts, but this one was constructed for a great walk. It was a two level house basically with two bunk rooms - one smaller one that held 12 people, and another large one that held possibly another 40 or so. There were porches and patios and a balcony. And the view. Well, I can't say you ever got bored of the view.

The only down side, there was no fire wood or coal. Actually, there was, but it was locked up underneath the hut - probably only to be accessed once the season started. Once the tramping season starts, the DOC puts a hut warden in every hut on the great walks. They basically live there and ensure that those paying money for the tramps are taken care of and keeping the place clean. The winter supplies had already been depleted. Probably because a lot of hikers come up to Mt. Luxmore and then return, avoiding the alpine crossing. Which means that there is a greater volume of hikers through this hut, which means no fire wood for those spending the night.

We tried, but it was a no go. Even with wind fall twigs and what have you.

Ten minutes from the hut were limestone caves that you could explore. One at a time, each group went out to explore the area. Each of us carrying torches. It was kind of neat to have a side trip/evening activity.

The sun sets much later now, quickly fading after 8.30pm. We spent the evening going through our routine. Dinner, water filtration, dishes. This evening, we spent the rest of the night with our new friends learning more about one another. That is until nightfall, where we all gave up trying to stay warm outside of our sleeping bags. We all called it a night. Brent and I stayed in the smaller bunk room, trying to keep clear or the others. I was still coughing quite a bit, and Brent was starting as well. The last thing we wanted to be was a nuisance for the others as they tried to sleep.

Morning came and we packed up as per usual. The fog was thick outside. The weather was supposed to move out of the area by 1pm. We decided we might still try the alpine crossing early in the morning.

It wasn't supposed to snow until Wednesday morning, so we thought we would just be facing rain and fog.

We were the first to set out by 9 o'clock. We like early starts to our days. It lets you spend more time resting at the hut at the end of the day. The wind had died down and it didn't look like it was raining anymore. There was frost and a bit of ice on the boardwalks around the hut and on the balcony. Signs of what was to come.

We slowly climbed up the track. Winding up through the zigzag ascent and boardwalks through the tarns. The snow started to show greater presence as we climbed. This was all fresh snow. Alarming to us. We weren't expecting it for another 24hrs. At about 1250m, we hit our white out conditions. As we always do, we stood in the situation and contemplated our next steps. Neither of us wanted to move forward. The snow was getting deeper and with the unknown above us, we didn't know how bad the avalanche danger would be.

So, we turned back. It was only 10 o'clock at this point, so we thought we could wait out the weather.

Along the way back to the hut, we bumped into to Yakov and Dmitry. Something of a side note. Both of the Israeli groups we met were young people who are either just starting school or in the middle of their studies. All have served in the army from 3.5 - 5 years. All are trained to push through any situation. All of them, not used to snow. Yakov and Dmitry are on their first tramp. Both groups carrying locater beacons and possibly feeling a false sense of security. We talked to both the boys and explained why we turned around. They decided to push ahead and see where they could reach. There are two alpine shelters on the crossing. We didn't want to risk reaching the shelter and being trapped there in bad weather. You could be trapped there until a storm pattern clears the area. Yakov was only wearing a fleece. We were worried about him.

Further down the trail, we bumped into Hadas & Adir, who after hearing what we encountered decided to turn around to the hut and wait out the weather with us. It was still quite early in the day. The hike across was supposed to only take 6 hours (that is, depending on weather). So we sat, in the cold hut, and waited out the storm.

It never fully passed. The clouds started to show signs of lifting around noon, but quickly clouded over soon after. Yakov & Dmitry never returned, so it was safe to say they attempted the crossing in the fresh snow. Hadas & Adir decided to test their luck around noon. They would try to cross, and if the weather was bad, they could still turn back and spend the night at Luxmore once again.

We decided to just turn back. The crossing wasn't worth it. Despite the fact that we would never get the view you truly want with the crossing due to all the fog and thick clouds, the risk wasn't worth making the hut.

We walked all the way back to the car, leaving the hut at 1pm. The walk was long - as it can be when you retrace your steps. The forest was beautiful. The rain brought out this aquamarine moss on the trees. The forest was almost glowing.

It's the last leg of the hikes that take the life out of you sometimes. We had the final stretch from the control gates back to the car - a 45mins walk. Dreadful when you just want to be done hiking. We had stopped at the gates to replenish our energy level. I was feeling dizzy - maybe dehydration related or just low sugar. We're not sure. So that last 45mins to the car was a heavy walk.

We spent the night in town and set back out in the early afternoon to walk the track from the opposite direction. This would bring us to Moturau hut and if the Israeli groups survived the crossing, we should be able to meet up with them at this hut. We wanted to make sure they were okay. We parked at a different spot this time, a track entry point 10kms out of town. This would cut off 4.5 hours of our hiking time on the first and last day. We had a quiet 2 hour hike on the first day to the hut.

We took our time as we knew we would make the hut by mid-afternoon. We walked across some raging rivers on bridges that I do not believe should have been that bouncy. Made me realize that I don't think I like foot bridges anymore. Took a side trip to a wetlands viewpoint, only to find Canadian Geese sitting in the pond hissing and calling out to each other. Seriously - Canadian Geese? Then we crossed over the bog and learned a bit more about bogs with an information point. Did you know that people die in bogs?? These things are nasty deep. They look just like wet lowland grass with puddles around. Then you stick your trekking pole in and it just keeps sinking. The information board said that this bog in particular had plants that grew up to five feet below. It's almost like quick sand. If you stepped into a bog unknowingly, you would just start to sink and probably wouldn't be able to make your way back out. Creepy.

At the hut, we met an English gentleman who was on a day hike discovering the park. We spent some time chatting with him before the first signs of trampers appeared. He stepped outside to take some pictures as Yakov and Dmitry walked up the hut's steps. They were both surprised and happy to see us. And we were happy to see them and to hear that the other two had crossed successfully as well. The snow on the alpine crossing, we were informed, was knee deep and challenging. It took Yakov and Dmitry 9 hours to hike it.

It was raining all day, and these two were really wet. Especially Yakov, who does not have a rain coat. An almost mandatory item for NZ tramping. We offered to start a fire and I pulled out our trusty book from Holly Hut and made my way to the stove.

"If that book does not work, I have a lonely planet we can try.", Yakov offered. He was desperate for warmth. It was difficult not having a fire at Luxmore because it was so cold that night. They did have fire wood at Iris Burn hut (our next hut), so they could keep warm after their snowy excursion.

We cooked up a good fire and waited as Hadas & Adir arrived, as well as two American trampers in for the night. It was wonderful to hear about the Israelis alpine experience, but we do not regret turning back. It didn't sound pleasant. We had already been through trails like that, reliving them wasn't important.

We spent the night talking by a warm fire. It was a nice evening.

Everyone pulled mats into the main room that night to sleep by the fire. It was the warmest room of the hut.

The next day, we all went our separate ways. We said our good byes and headed up the track to Iris Burn hut, the last hut for our tramp. The next day we would return to the car.

It was a quiet day. The weather was great. We didn't bump into any hikers this day.

This part of the track brought us along the Iris Burn River and other streams that fall into the Iris Burn River. It was windy as you weaved through forest and rocky river beds. Unusual for us, all the water crossings were bridged except for three. One bridge was pulled off the waterway - possibly due to flooding concerns and possible damage to the bridge. Mind you, the water flow was quite minimal at this point. They remove bridges from certain tracks in the winter months due to damage concerns - generally on the great walks and in areas where snow melt is a great risk. What these waterways look like in heavy rain is beyond me.

The track then brought us through a gorgeous valley. Surrounded by snow capped mountains and cliffs all around. Pencil thin waterfalls falling down the mountains, through the forest you can see the water rushing down. Some waterfalls have nowhere to go, falling off the cliff side into oblivion. The wind blowing the falling water into sheets of mist further down. The sun beaming down on the snow, which had fallen to 300m the night before, barely making a dent in it. Snow melt was not a concern on this day.

It was a nice hike. Typical Fiordland Park beautiful. All the way to the hut, which sat in tussock-like long grass in a valley of mountains.

At the hut, we collected and chopped fire wood before setting out on yet another side trip, this one to Iris Burn Falls.

Through our routine we spent the evening sheltered from the rain that mildly started to fall. We started a warm fire and ended the evening playing cards on a bench aided by firelight and our lantern.

There was a bang.

Unexpected.

The sun was set now, it was close to 9pm.

Another rustle. Just outside the door.

Maybe it's a possum. They sound like birds almost at night. Maybe a night owl of some sort. I can't identify all the animals by their night calls.

Brent and I both jumped up. Staring at one of three doors to the hut. In the main room, you're surrounded by glass windows. It's a classic horror movie if it so chose to be. Out in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone reception, two people alone in a hut, laughing, having fun...then WHAM.

Your mind thinks that way sometimes.

I heard a voice. And for some reason, despite having certain fears, I will always open a door to discover what is rustling on the other side.

Blinded by a light. All I saw was a giant stick.

And a gleeful cheer from the light source.

Two Israeli guys, who had just completed the alpine crossing in now waist deep snow, so happy to be at the hut and even happier to know people were already there and had built a fire.

We cleared the bench and sat them by the fire to warm up. We spent the night stoking the fire and just being warm before all sleeping in the main room to stay warm.

In the morning, we set out early enough. 8.29am. The weather was still holding out, but it was supposed to have been raining the day before and today. We wanted to avoid the river crossings in deep flood. And today, there was no problem.

The walk was quick. Stopping at the Moturau hut for lunch before the final stretch to the car. On the last stretch, crossing paths with an old gentleman we had bumped into two days earlier. I think he just walks the track over and over again.

Once we sat ourselves in Sgt. McClaughwd, the rain started. Funny.

Back to town. Back to Rosie's. Only to find out that Rosie and Johanna (a German girl working at the backpackers for the summer) had been to Moturau hut that day and were going to write a note to us in the hut intentions book, but decided not to thinking we wouldn't see it. Yet we stopped in and read the book and that would have been hilarious. The sort of thing that would make you feel special.

Two days of rest before checking in with the doctor on Monday about the back, and possibly about a throat concern Brent and I have both developed. Alistar, Rosie's husband, is now on antibiotics for possibly strep throat, something that we might also be now battling.

I'm telling you, it's just one thing right after another.

Next track on our list is the Routeburn - but only to the second hut. The avalanche concern is quite high right now. The DOC is looking into blasting some snow caps to have the track ready to open come October 28th. In order to ensure safe hiking for the peak season. Milford is also looking really iffy right now, and Brent and I might just not bother. With 30-50cm of new snow appearing over the last few days, that hike is a huge risk right now. The DOC has flown in hut wardens during the off season just to stop people from crossing through the valley (with sheer cliffs posing avalanche concerns) and going over the pass. Despite warnings, people are still going through with these hikes.

Two days ago, a woman drowned in Egmont National Park crossing a swollen river despite being warned not to. Brent and I are looking to see if the river that took her life was the same one we turned away from that dreadful day. It was in the same area.

So, despite the alpine crossing, we have completed the Kepler track. Unfortunately, this is the most dangerous time for avalanches. Not worth our lives crossing these areas of concern. We have way too much hiking ahead of us to be risking our lives all the time.

We took five days to go up and down the trail in both directions. Funny enough, there is a race called the Kepler Challenge that takes place in early December, where racers run the Kepler track in a day. The fastest time so far has been four hours and thirty seven minutes. That's an hour for every leg of the track, that should take four days if you stay in all three huts.

Kind of puts trampers to shame.