The rain was continuous with these magical breaks of sun. They didn't last long, and when you really take a look at things around you, the fiords are more beautiful with the rain. Sheer cliffs. Vegetation clinging on for dear life. Shallow roots. Exposed and vulnerable. Mass amounts of rain. Clay and limestone cliffs. Overtaken by a mossy bed that has allowed such a wonderful array of plant life to grow.
Unique rainforests.
Silence.
Just the sound of the rain beating down on the hood of my rain jacket. And the waterfalls pouring down the cliffs' edges. And the rain's pitter patter on the fresh water level.
Hall arm.
Silence.
As quiet as you can get out here in the Fiordland National Park. You wouldn't even know that 60 some odd people were standing behind you or that you were on a medium sized vessel.
A moment alone with the true beauty of what the land can offer. What it used to be like before man. Untouched wonderland that cannot be captured in a picture or a movie, no matter how hard you try. You have to experience it yourself.
I spun around slowly and quietly through the 5 or 10 minutes we were given. Taking in the waterfalls pouring off the sheer cliffs and marveling at the sheer magnitude of this park. Freshly snow capped mountains. Rolling clouds circling and hugging the lush green cliffs. Rolling in and out. Lifting up. Raining down.
Magical.
Engine off. The vessel sat in the arm drifting with the current and the wind. We were all asked not to take any pictures or speak and just treasure this special moment.
One of our final moments in Doubtful Sound.
The overnight cruise was fantastic! I think because it was this little wonderful moment of luxury on our back to nature type trip. Where do you begin to talk about the moments?
The day started in a small town called Manapouri, about a 20mins drive south of Te Anau, one we have done twice before. After signing in at the Real Journey's office, we waited with the others before boarding our first boat.
In typical Fiordland fashion, it was pouring rain. :)
The first boat ride was just under an hour. A quick zip across Lake Manapouri to reach West Arm, a small road that almost feels like it goes nowhere. However, at West Arm you will find the Manapouri power station - the largest in the country. This road that leads away from the lake towards the Tasman Sea (via Doubtful Sound) was built to link the sea with this power station, so that they could ship the large parts required to build the station. Building this isolated road was seen as a cheaper option then reinforcing all the bridges between Manapouri's power station and the closest harbour town, Invercargill. In the end, the road ended up being the most expensive road ever built in New Zealand. Something like 5$ per square inch. It's 22kms long. Incredible.
The road climbs through Wilmot's pass and then descends to the harbour, where at this point in time is taken over by all the day and overnight cruise vessels.
A windy, steep, gravel road. We sat on the left hand side of the bus and there were moments where you thought the bus was going to tip over and drop down some nasty sheer cliffs you were driving on the ledge of. As the bus climbed higher, Brent stopped looking out the window. There are enough land slips in NZ to make you fearful of your fate on a windy gravel road like this. It wouldn't take much to slip away - and there were plenty of examples on this particular drive.
What untouched beauty though. The waterfalls were enormous. The valleys were stunning. The rivers were so wild. And there is an 8-10 day tramp out here called Dusky Track, but when you see what you would be facing, you understand why only experienced people should be tempting it. So wild and so isolated. It was the beginning of our adventure to Doubtful Sound, and the beginning of the reality of its preserved beauty.
Oh, and the bus driver. Funniest man around. He had this wicked sarcastic English humour. He was so dry and so funny. It made the bus ride incredibly entertaining. Rex. That was his name.
When we arrived at the Navigator, our vessel for the evening, they did not waste any time. Rounded us up onto the ship so that we could quickly set sail. We all ventured into the main hall sitting around the beautiful U-shaped booths. Once the ship started to drift away, the crew was starting to introduce themselves and walk us through the logistics, safety and get us all set up in our rooms.
It felt like the Titanic. Those who paid for the single private rooms slept on the main level in rooms with locking doors and wooden shutters. Then there were those of us who paid the lesser amount of money (heh, heh) and slept in the Quad bunk area, which I think was the way better deal! There were 8-10 quad bunk rooms, all of which could achieve total privacy from the other rooms by a green curtain. I guess you could say there was a risk of theft, but you only had a day bag, and who would waste their time buggering up other people's property - we only had 20 hours on the boat - and it was a busy 20 hours.
And the beauty of the quad bunk rooms - we all ended up having our own private quarters. Every room was only occupied by two people, most of which were couples if not just two friends traveling together. In the quad bunk rooms, which were on the lowest level of the ship (hence the Titanic feeling - pay the least, you are put in the gutter), you had a wicked view - right on the water! Literally, you got an oval-esque window right on the water's level. The water ripping and splashing as we cruised on through the sound. It was an interesting perspective.
The rooms offered really cozy bunk beds on both sides and a step ladder that leads up the back wall to both the window and to the upper bunks. It was a great beginning to this new adventure.
Brent and I wasted no time, we were off exploring every door way and every view that was available to be seen on this ship. Starting off with another pit stop in the main hall for freshly baked muffins (cinnamon-y apricot type flavor - we're not quite sure) and free drinks of course.
Oh my goodness, the food. We could never talk enough about this food. Not only had we been dreaming about this food for ions, but it was simply fabulous food. Every crumb we ate throughout the night and into the morning. So good. This was the big spoiling moment for us.
Full of energy, we started to spend time on the very front of the ship, a place I ended up camping myself most often. As close to the front and in the rain 85% of the time (with small breaks of sun, and moments where the clouds simply didn't rip open). We wanted to soak as much of this place in as possible.
You can't take a picture. You do, and you try, but what does it give you. For us, all of these pictures will be great ways to access our memories of standing on that ship looking around and being there. For others, they will never know until they experience it themselves. As wonderful as cameras are, they cannot capture the life that thrives in the environment. They cannot capture the depth of the mountains, the crisp clouds, the cold rain, the sound of the waterfalls erupting around you, the waves crashing on the rock walls, the height of these monstrous towering cliffs, the dwarfing effect that this world creates. You just cannot capture a single drop of the life.
What life!
What a wonderful gem. Untouched. Inhospitable. What a wonderful curse to have. I only wish we had more gems like this closer to home so that I could get lost every once and a while. A reminder of how small we truly are on this planet, not in a bad way, just at how wonderful and giant this amazing planet really is. What a wonderful creation!
Ata Whenua. Shadowland. The fiords. The mountains fall in and out of shadow as the clouds roll into the land. It's a beautiful reality. People complain about the rain, but that is what Fiordland is known for, their incredible rainfall. One of the wettest places on Earth. These mountains come to life in the rain. There is a unique beauty that they portray and that is hiding in the rain. The fog is so thick and creates this haunting space.
Ata Whenua.
Carved velvety lush rainforests, clinging to life on the sheer cliffs that climb all around you. The scars of slips in the past are easily spotted, glistening white and grey along the cliffs. New life sneaking its way back onto the rocky terrain, within 50 years or so, trees will be growing once again. Once the moss has taken over and created a rich base layer.
Ata Whenua.
In front and behind us, the mountains dipping in and out of shadows as we travel through the Fiord. The rain coming and going. The wind, so strong as we move forward. You had to be prepared for a cold trip.
Not too long into the trip, we were already starting our activities as two tender craft vehicles took separate groups out to do nature tours of the area (with a closer view due to the smaller boats), while the rest of us tested our luck in the kayaks.
Kayaking in Doubtful Sound. An experience to remember. Sitting on the water. Paddling alongside sheer cliffs towering easily 1000m. Waterfalls cascading down the mountainside and just outside of your kayak. Self powered, affected by the occasional tender craft waves, which brought moments which could put you on the edge as you teetered around the water (these were a different style kayak). It was magical though. What a phenomenal way to see this space. And also our first real look at the full vessel we were staying on.
We spent about an hour on the water before heading back to the boat, where people were invited to take a dive off the back end of the boat. Into icy cold water. Water running off the mountains are ice cold either from the rain or the snow melt they are bringing from the peaks. Ocean water with a 7m layer of fresh water over top. Murky brown water until you dive past the area where the fresh water and salt water meet, then its nothing but clear blue ocean. A phenomenon which I do not believe is repeated anywhere else in the world.
And a few brave souls actually took a dip. I'm getting cold just thinking about it.
After our water activities, and for some a hot shower, we were fed this wonderful soup and amazing herb rolls. The flavours of the day were Tomato & Bacon and Potato & Leek. Being a duo, we ordered one of each. They really were delicious. The food really was A+! We spent this afternoon snack time with an American couple, one of which was studying in Auckland, and her boyfriend who is in NZ visiting her for ONE WEEK! I can't even imagine trying to see this country in a week. I would cry.
On the deck once again, we found ourselves hitting amazing weather as we entered the mouth of the Tasman Sea. This is where you start to see the blue waters once again as you move out of the Fiord and into the ocean. The murky brown water that covers the top of the Fiords' waterways slowly slips into a deep blue colour.
Giant rock islands in front of us, sheltering sun bathing seals and sea lions and penguins coming out of the water after a long day hunting. The ocean water crashing against the rocks all around us. The Navigator swooping up and down as the waves grew larger. It was an incredible feeling to be at the front of the boat. The sun was out, the sky was blue, the weather was favorable. Apparently they enter the Tasman Sea with really big swells. Today, our nature guide says it was calm.
So calm that I had to hold on for dear life at times when we went over a wave.
I can't imagine what this ride is like with larger waves!
The skipper brought the boat close to a lot of the rocks to try to spot wildlife for people. We were probably the only two people on the ship not rushing out to see wildlife on this trip, as we have been blessed with up close and personal moments with these Fiordland Crested penguins and the seals. We are still super excited about wildlife and find those moments truly magical, but we wanted to let others enjoy this time as we took a moment to breathe in the ocean air.
Besides, on Stewart Island, we'll once again be in the face of a wonderful array of animals, but just as we have experienced it before, it will be within feet of the animals. In the paths in front of us. That, we truly look forward to once again.
Dinner quickly followed our trip out to the Tasman Sea. The skipper found a quiet spot in First Arm and dropped anchor for the night. A dinner buffet that conquered us. Again we sat with our new American friends, as we all wanted to really enjoy (ie: pig out) the buffet and we knew we wouldn't judge one another. Salads, vegetables, meat, meat, meat, potatoes, and this vegetarian dish that was delicious. We tried everything. Twice. :) Sadly, we could not try any more. Our bellies expanded a little too much, and apparently didn't have enough room for the 10 servings Brent and I were convinced we could take in.
Mind you, my second plate was full of salad and one piece of chicken, while Brent returned with an entire plate full of food. Good on him.
Then came the dessert buffet. Oh so good. Cakes, cakes, cakes, fruit and cheese & crackers. I tried the cake, cake, cake. As did Brent.
Brent however, did not conquer the desserts that night. They conquered him. As he painfully ate the last piece of this incredible chocolate cake, he found himself in pain for the rest of the night. While I tempted a second helping during our evening entertainment.
But we had to sit up straight for the rest of the night. Hunching over even slightly would set a pressure on your stomach that we weren't interested in feeling. I almost think our table was the only table that had it in mind to eat like a buffet. Everyone else seemed fine. The food was so good, and we don't usually eat this much (especially on the trails), but we had to make the most of it. And it was worth it.
In the evening, our nature guide Ben, who would talk over the loudspeaker every once and a while through the trip as he provided us with history of the land, had prepared a slide show for us. It was a hilarious presentation of the area and the story of the land. His humour is amazing and it really was a great way to end the night.
As evening set, most people went to bed. We spent a last moment outside, enjoying a rainless moment in the dark looking for stars and enjoying the shadows of the mountains around us. With the engine off, it truly is a different experience. It was so quiet.
We soon after found our way to bed to enjoy a quiet evening in our bunk. The beds were so nice. The sleep was very comfortable.
The early bird that I am, I woke Brent up early so we could watch the sun come up. Although not much of a sun rise, it was still amazing to watch the first day's light come into the Fiord. At 6.37am, the engine was back on as we spent time in the front of the boat watching them raise and clean the anchor before setting off once again.
Breakfast. Another buffet. :) This cruise is what dreams are made of. A wonderful spread of fresh & canned fruit, hot eats (eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns), toast, cereal, yogurts, and baked beans. Yum.
We spent some time talking to the nature guide who asked us why we didn't decide to work for Real Journeys and come on their cruises. They work 7 days on and have 7 days off, in which time we could have been tramping. Unfortunately, we didn't think about that when we first arrived. Imagine your job was to take people out into the Fiords every day, and you do actually get time to enjoy the serene environment on each trip. That would have been fun!
But this was a great way to experience it too. And we get to relax cause we're not on the clock!
Our last few moments on the boat. We found ourselves back in the front of the boat, where I honestly lived snapping as many pictures as I could. Taking it all in. One of the most untouched parts of Fiordland National Park. Rain pounding down on our bodies, Gortex keeping us dry. But skin's waterproof, and you're only here once.
These moments need to be soaked in. Literally.
Despite not seeing a single dolphin (which I was looking for on and off through the entire trip), this was a fantastic time. The crew was phenomenal. The experience was magical. And soon enough, it was all over, and we were back on the bus across the Wilmot Pass and back to the visitor center awaiting our last boat across Lake Manapouri.
When we exited the visitor center, I noticed a larger then life sign about not feeding the kea birds. The DOC has green and yellow signs in all their parks, and I had already taken a snap shot of a smaller version of this sign. I asked Brent why he thought this sign was so large. We had yet to ever see a Kea, and had been in the Fiords for over a month.
Suddenly, Brent points over to one of the company trucks. Low and behold, a Kea trying to chew into the rubber of the spare tire on the back of the truck. Everyone was snapping pictures. We stopped for a moment and thought, maybe this bird wasn't working alone. They are seldom alone and they are the smartest bird in the world. And this one, flew right over the photographers who he was posing for and straight to the luggage that had been left behind by these same people. Smart little bird.
Cheeky little bird. Johanna, a girl who is working at Rosie & Alistair's house, has taught me one line in German. Der Kea War Sehr Frech. It means - the Kea is very cheeky. :) Best line ever, even though she's always asking me why I wouldn't want to learn something more useful.
The Kea was shooed away before he accessed the luggage, but these birds know how to open zippers. They are smart birds. And surprisingly bigger then I expected. Bigger than a parrot in a pet shop. Green in colour, but a gorgeous rainbow of colours under their wings.
The second Kea did appear and they both landed on our Manapouri boat, where we all spent time taking pictures. One of the workers told us about a bus that 2 Keas had destroyed when someone accidentally left the front door open. Tens of thousands of dollars in damage. They mangled up all the seats and just chewed into everything. So destructive.
After shooing away our little friends, we set off and our trip came to an end.
It was a royal treat.
You could sum up all your time in Fiordland National Park by saying how beautiful it was - but those words do not do it justice.
This...this is what life should always be like.
Serene, untouched and spectacular.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Living the life in Te Anau
So, minor set back in blog land. The computer at the hostel is fried and not living within the confines of the actual hostel at the moment. It's in the hands of a very slow going doctor.
It's been over 1/2 month.
On the plus side, we did discover free internet at the Te Anau library - which was closed when we first arrived due to a freak flood incident.
Missing in the blog posts so far are our adventures on the Routeburn track, the Hollyford track and the measly attempt at Hump Ridge. Each one unique with its ups and downs.
Life in Te Anau is quickly coming to an end. We are one tramp away from leaving the town we have called home since the very end of September. In the end we will have trecked 5 of the 6 tracks that we intended in Fiordland National Park. Left behind, the acclaimed Milford Track. What threw us from the track, outside of a plague of avalanche concerns, was the cost of actually getting to the track (boat transport both ways - upwards of $170/each) and my all time favorite, the famous quote. Milford is said to be 'one of the finest walks in the world'.
Inspiring, no?
Until you find out that the person who actually wrote that, NEVER once set foot on the track itself. Now, how do you figure that aspect of the quote was never made public?
Good times. We don't regret our decision. We have enjoyed the tramps we have been privileged to walk in the park so far. This part of NZ boasts an incredible and unique beauty that will not soon be forgotten.
Gas is finally down. Only 178.9 per liter. Want to know something really GREAT about New Zealand? On their labour day weekend (which just passed), their gas prices DROPPED by 4c/litre. Not a very common thing to see back home. But the price of oil dropped, so naturally, the pumps showed a drop as well. Still, somehow, the Canadian gas companies always find a reason to jack the prices up on a long weekend.
Our boots are starting to show desperate signs of aging. We take care of these things like no other boots/shoes we have ever owned. We're in and out of mud and water on a daily basis on the tracks. And the toll is visible as the wrinkles are setting into the once sexy new boots. They look at least 10 years old now. They are barely the same colour as they started out. Funny what a little tramping can do to a boot. Poor dears.
Did I mention that I was in physiotherapy? :)
Lately, it feels like I'm living in a medical center in a small town. So, I had to visit the doctor once before for the persistent illness that just wouldn't go away - even after antibiotics, I was battling something for another week and a half. Then I had to return to see the same doctor for my back, that started to show new signs of distress after the Kepler track. He advised me to seek physiotherapy treatment and provided me with a prescription as well as a 'script for a lower lumbar Xray once we return to Invercargill at the beginning of next month.
At this point in time, I have had two sessions of physio with the local therapist - she's really great, and a keen tramper so she wants to see me back up 100% - and I have two to go before we step away from Te Anau. This was the only opportunity I would have to seek treatment, as we will not be in another location for as long.
The unfortunate news is that this injury has seriously affected my tramping. It's now a quite painful experience, especially with any uphill action. I used to hop up and around so quickly, and now a days, find myself loathing the idea of the uphills and suffer, although mostly silently, through each agonizing step. It's been quite the downer for myself only because it really has taken away some of the joy that I used to get from being out there. It's an injury that has directly affected exactly what we came here to do. I know Brent sees how much it has affected me and my happiness on the trails as well.
We have a very long 10 day tramp ahead of us, and upon further discussion with Rosie at the hostel, have decided to postpone our trip to Stewart Island, not more than a week, to give my back some further time to heal before the treacherous tramp. It's a very hilly trek, every day high climbs and long descents. And when you tramp for that long, your start pack weight is unbearably heavy. The physiotherapist has asked me to cut down my weight, but when you look at the longer treks, you both need to carry a full pack, as one person could not manage the heavier items alone. After our last tramp, we are looking at doing a short term FHINZ (farm helpers in NZ) stay before crossing to the south. These one day breaks in between tramps has not been beneficial to my back problem.
It's nice though, because Brent lies down and does the exercises with me at the hostel so I don't feel as silly in the living room while others are around. My next appointment is tomorrow afternoon, where there will be discussion of a strap that puts pressure on my back that might help subdue some of the pain while we are on the trails.
Good news, today is the day we have been waiting for since October 2nd!! Tonight is our overnight Doubtful Sound cruise. We have been dreaming about this cruise on all of our hikes, and were hoping to have completed them all before this treat, but you can't rush healing. We will set off shortly for Manapouri, a small town just south of Te Anau, to meet up with a boat that will take us across the lake to meet a bus that will take us to our glorious cruise ship. We have heard amazing things about the buffet dinner and breakfast. On every tramp, we talk about what food we will eat first. Number one - SALAD. Something we both miss SOOOO MUCH. Followed by chicken and veggies. Sadly, food is a big focus on the trails - as you're burning off so many calories in a 8-10 hr day (on average) - your tummy really starts to take control of your brain. The wonderful views & food. Number one priorities on the trails. :)
Mind you, we have started to eat a lot better - not just soup and pasta between tramps. We have been making stir-frys and steamed vegetables. Yummmm.
None the less, these two buffets have been keeping our spirits up on the trails when we are most hungry. :)
And today is the day.
I hope to post soon about the last three tramps we have enjoyed. Worse case, I'll try to type them out within my 30mins time slot at the library.
Wishful thinking.
It's been over 1/2 month.
On the plus side, we did discover free internet at the Te Anau library - which was closed when we first arrived due to a freak flood incident.
Missing in the blog posts so far are our adventures on the Routeburn track, the Hollyford track and the measly attempt at Hump Ridge. Each one unique with its ups and downs.
Life in Te Anau is quickly coming to an end. We are one tramp away from leaving the town we have called home since the very end of September. In the end we will have trecked 5 of the 6 tracks that we intended in Fiordland National Park. Left behind, the acclaimed Milford Track. What threw us from the track, outside of a plague of avalanche concerns, was the cost of actually getting to the track (boat transport both ways - upwards of $170/each) and my all time favorite, the famous quote. Milford is said to be 'one of the finest walks in the world'.
Inspiring, no?
Until you find out that the person who actually wrote that, NEVER once set foot on the track itself. Now, how do you figure that aspect of the quote was never made public?
Good times. We don't regret our decision. We have enjoyed the tramps we have been privileged to walk in the park so far. This part of NZ boasts an incredible and unique beauty that will not soon be forgotten.
Gas is finally down. Only 178.9 per liter. Want to know something really GREAT about New Zealand? On their labour day weekend (which just passed), their gas prices DROPPED by 4c/litre. Not a very common thing to see back home. But the price of oil dropped, so naturally, the pumps showed a drop as well. Still, somehow, the Canadian gas companies always find a reason to jack the prices up on a long weekend.
Our boots are starting to show desperate signs of aging. We take care of these things like no other boots/shoes we have ever owned. We're in and out of mud and water on a daily basis on the tracks. And the toll is visible as the wrinkles are setting into the once sexy new boots. They look at least 10 years old now. They are barely the same colour as they started out. Funny what a little tramping can do to a boot. Poor dears.
Did I mention that I was in physiotherapy? :)
Lately, it feels like I'm living in a medical center in a small town. So, I had to visit the doctor once before for the persistent illness that just wouldn't go away - even after antibiotics, I was battling something for another week and a half. Then I had to return to see the same doctor for my back, that started to show new signs of distress after the Kepler track. He advised me to seek physiotherapy treatment and provided me with a prescription as well as a 'script for a lower lumbar Xray once we return to Invercargill at the beginning of next month.
At this point in time, I have had two sessions of physio with the local therapist - she's really great, and a keen tramper so she wants to see me back up 100% - and I have two to go before we step away from Te Anau. This was the only opportunity I would have to seek treatment, as we will not be in another location for as long.
The unfortunate news is that this injury has seriously affected my tramping. It's now a quite painful experience, especially with any uphill action. I used to hop up and around so quickly, and now a days, find myself loathing the idea of the uphills and suffer, although mostly silently, through each agonizing step. It's been quite the downer for myself only because it really has taken away some of the joy that I used to get from being out there. It's an injury that has directly affected exactly what we came here to do. I know Brent sees how much it has affected me and my happiness on the trails as well.
We have a very long 10 day tramp ahead of us, and upon further discussion with Rosie at the hostel, have decided to postpone our trip to Stewart Island, not more than a week, to give my back some further time to heal before the treacherous tramp. It's a very hilly trek, every day high climbs and long descents. And when you tramp for that long, your start pack weight is unbearably heavy. The physiotherapist has asked me to cut down my weight, but when you look at the longer treks, you both need to carry a full pack, as one person could not manage the heavier items alone. After our last tramp, we are looking at doing a short term FHINZ (farm helpers in NZ) stay before crossing to the south. These one day breaks in between tramps has not been beneficial to my back problem.
It's nice though, because Brent lies down and does the exercises with me at the hostel so I don't feel as silly in the living room while others are around. My next appointment is tomorrow afternoon, where there will be discussion of a strap that puts pressure on my back that might help subdue some of the pain while we are on the trails.
Good news, today is the day we have been waiting for since October 2nd!! Tonight is our overnight Doubtful Sound cruise. We have been dreaming about this cruise on all of our hikes, and were hoping to have completed them all before this treat, but you can't rush healing. We will set off shortly for Manapouri, a small town just south of Te Anau, to meet up with a boat that will take us across the lake to meet a bus that will take us to our glorious cruise ship. We have heard amazing things about the buffet dinner and breakfast. On every tramp, we talk about what food we will eat first. Number one - SALAD. Something we both miss SOOOO MUCH. Followed by chicken and veggies. Sadly, food is a big focus on the trails - as you're burning off so many calories in a 8-10 hr day (on average) - your tummy really starts to take control of your brain. The wonderful views & food. Number one priorities on the trails. :)
Mind you, we have started to eat a lot better - not just soup and pasta between tramps. We have been making stir-frys and steamed vegetables. Yummmm.
None the less, these two buffets have been keeping our spirits up on the trails when we are most hungry. :)
And today is the day.
I hope to post soon about the last three tramps we have enjoyed. Worse case, I'll try to type them out within my 30mins time slot at the library.
Wishful thinking.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
The Kepler track: A tramp in two takes
We were the first to set out on the alpine crossing in the morning. The weather was terrible. The gorgeous view that was offered the night before was blanketed in fog in the morning. The weather was rough. It was sleeting at the hut, and only turned worse the further up the mountain you tramped. We wanted an early start to test the waters.
It took us about an hour. We were about 20mins from the Mt. Luxmore junction - a side trip to the peak, in good weather you could probably enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the park. The sleet turned to snow as we climbed. Slowly there was a dusting on the ground. Then a thicker layer. Suddenly you're crossing an avalanche path in boot deep snow. My gut was turning as I looked up the mountain at the first of nine avalanche paths. There was a lot of fresh snow. The biggest concern for an avalanche occurs during or directly after new precipitation.
When we turned the corner, it was like hitting a wall. White out conditions. We could no longer see above us. The snow quickly turned to hail as the wind beat down on us with a mighty force. We couldn't face one another to speak. If you tried, you would be pelted in the face by the gale winds and the hail. It was like a blizzard from out of nowhere.
We had 8 more avalanche zones to pass through higher peaks. One alpine crossing along the ridge. Who knew how much snow had fallen that night. We weren't expecting it until the next day.
It had been just over a month since our last tramp. The mighty Queen Charlotte Track. One month and a bit since my fall and back injury, something I thought was behind me, until I started hiking this day. Plagued by illness, Brent and I just decided to hike no matter what. Neither of us feeling 100%. He had started to show signs of a nasty cold (not the flu though - so yay!). I was still on antibiotics and showing up and down signs of recovery. But we were tired of waiting, so we decided to make our way through the Kepler track. It was Monday, October 6th. We had a three night tramp ahead of us, and we were looking forward to it.
We actually lucked out quite a bit with the weather. It was a nice day on our first day of tramping. Clear views worth every agonizing footstep up the steep track to Luxmore Hut. Agonizing for both of us in different ways. Taking a month off of tramping was hard for the two of us. We are in the country for that exact reason. So needless to say, taking a month off then slapping a heavy pack onto your back is almost like the first hike all over again. You kind of remember all those muscles you had forgotten about over the last little while. By the end of the day they are screaming out to you for attention, yet you have to look past the pain, as you have several days of hiking ahead of you. No pain, no gain. At the same time, I was being re-introduced to back pain that I suffered on a fall on the QCT. At first, we both thought it was simply a bad case of bruising on the lower spine. Now, we suspect it might be more.
Needless to say, I now once again have an appointment with the Te Anau medical centre on Monday morning to have my back looked at. We both fear I may have done some deeper damage and thus far it is affecting our tramping. We just finished up a 5 day hike, but it wasn't an easy walk for me lower back. We'll keep you posted.
Despite any pain you might feel while tramping in New Zealand, there is no better pay off. The views are beyond spectacular - that is when the weather cooperates and allows you glimpses of your environment. This being our first tramp in Fiordland National Park, it surely didn't disappoint.
The ground was buoyant. There were times where you would step on the track and it would cushion your footing and bounce you right back up into another step. Amazing. Day one was a pretty big incline. After a 45minute hike from the long term car park (which we partially spent with another girl from our hostel who was out on a day hike) you enter the first part of the track. A lowland beech forest walk by lake Te Anau. Simple and easy. For an hour an a half you had a pretty easy day.
We stopped at Broad Bay, a camp site just before you start the incline. This was our first introduction to sandflies. The infamous fly, kind of like a black fly from back home, except possibly more annoying. If you are walking, they can't keep up with you. The moment you stop moving, they swarm you. We were to get used to these insects, as they enjoyed living in the park, and are found near moving water - which on the Kepler track is all around you. Also, they are a day time problem. They start to fade around dusk, which is kind of nice.
The track was beautiful and challenging. We crossed paths with a large amount of people, a mix of day hikers and possibly people just coming off the track from the other direction (it's a circuit track). We started to wonder if we were alone traveling in our direction towards Luxmore.
We pushed through from Broad Bay until just after these amazing Limestone Bluffs before we ate lunch. At the top of a set of stairs and ladder, we decided to stop and snack on our fabulous crackers and cheese. Up the stairs came another couple, Hadas & Adir from Israel. They were carrying large packs, which is our only indication if someone is going to do a day hike or an overnight tramp. They stopped to chat for a bit before heading down the trail ahead of us. Brent and I looked at one another. This is our first great walk (there are nine in NZ), this would be our 6th hut (which Brent says makes us break even - cause the hut pass is $90, and huts are generally $15/night) and it would be the first time that we have ever shared a hut with another person.
As the tramping season approaches, the trails are starting to show more signs of life.
We powered through the rest of the ascent before bumping into Hadas & Adir once again at the last sign before the hut. An indication that we were 45mins out. An unusual sign for a tramp. You don't usually get updated information as you hike. You usually only get timings for your hike at junctions.
This sign was situated at the very edge of the forest. An unusual boundary between the forest and tussock. Nothing gradual. You almost walk through a doorway of trees and bam, tussock. We're used to sub-alpine scrub or shrubs or something. This was an interesting boundary.
A windy walk through rolling tussock hills was the last leg of the tramp to Luxmore Hut. The views were stunning. The Murchison Mountains across the South Fiord were absolutely phenomenal. The view was striking and breathtaking. You hike for views like this. Pinching yourself everywhere you turn. People honestly pay a lot of money for views like this. All we had to do was buy an annual hut pass. (At least until Oct. 28th, when we can no longer tramp on the great walks without buying hut tickets - as the prices sky rocket for huts on great walks during the tramping season.)
Velvety emerald green ripples. Trees clinging to whatever stretch of limestone or clay they can find before slipping to the ground when their life can no longer be sustained. The scars of landslips left behind can be spotted from a mile away. Brown and grey rips through the green waves of the mountains. You can't put into words the way the fiords look. Sheer beauty. Tranquil world. Birds singing all around you during the day. It's quite spectacular.
And cold. It was very cold on the mountain.
We got to the hut, only to find another two hikers, Yakov and Dmitry - both from Israel (as were Hadas & Adir). This hut was quite amazing to look at. We have spent nights in great huts, but this one was constructed for a great walk. It was a two level house basically with two bunk rooms - one smaller one that held 12 people, and another large one that held possibly another 40 or so. There were porches and patios and a balcony. And the view. Well, I can't say you ever got bored of the view.
The only down side, there was no fire wood or coal. Actually, there was, but it was locked up underneath the hut - probably only to be accessed once the season started. Once the tramping season starts, the DOC puts a hut warden in every hut on the great walks. They basically live there and ensure that those paying money for the tramps are taken care of and keeping the place clean. The winter supplies had already been depleted. Probably because a lot of hikers come up to Mt. Luxmore and then return, avoiding the alpine crossing. Which means that there is a greater volume of hikers through this hut, which means no fire wood for those spending the night.
We tried, but it was a no go. Even with wind fall twigs and what have you.
Ten minutes from the hut were limestone caves that you could explore. One at a time, each group went out to explore the area. Each of us carrying torches. It was kind of neat to have a side trip/evening activity.
The sun sets much later now, quickly fading after 8.30pm. We spent the evening going through our routine. Dinner, water filtration, dishes. This evening, we spent the rest of the night with our new friends learning more about one another. That is until nightfall, where we all gave up trying to stay warm outside of our sleeping bags. We all called it a night. Brent and I stayed in the smaller bunk room, trying to keep clear or the others. I was still coughing quite a bit, and Brent was starting as well. The last thing we wanted to be was a nuisance for the others as they tried to sleep.
Morning came and we packed up as per usual. The fog was thick outside. The weather was supposed to move out of the area by 1pm. We decided we might still try the alpine crossing early in the morning.
It wasn't supposed to snow until Wednesday morning, so we thought we would just be facing rain and fog.
We were the first to set out by 9 o'clock. We like early starts to our days. It lets you spend more time resting at the hut at the end of the day. The wind had died down and it didn't look like it was raining anymore. There was frost and a bit of ice on the boardwalks around the hut and on the balcony. Signs of what was to come.
We slowly climbed up the track. Winding up through the zigzag ascent and boardwalks through the tarns. The snow started to show greater presence as we climbed. This was all fresh snow. Alarming to us. We weren't expecting it for another 24hrs. At about 1250m, we hit our white out conditions. As we always do, we stood in the situation and contemplated our next steps. Neither of us wanted to move forward. The snow was getting deeper and with the unknown above us, we didn't know how bad the avalanche danger would be.
So, we turned back. It was only 10 o'clock at this point, so we thought we could wait out the weather.
Along the way back to the hut, we bumped into to Yakov and Dmitry. Something of a side note. Both of the Israeli groups we met were young people who are either just starting school or in the middle of their studies. All have served in the army from 3.5 - 5 years. All are trained to push through any situation. All of them, not used to snow. Yakov and Dmitry are on their first tramp. Both groups carrying locater beacons and possibly feeling a false sense of security. We talked to both the boys and explained why we turned around. They decided to push ahead and see where they could reach. There are two alpine shelters on the crossing. We didn't want to risk reaching the shelter and being trapped there in bad weather. You could be trapped there until a storm pattern clears the area. Yakov was only wearing a fleece. We were worried about him.
Further down the trail, we bumped into Hadas & Adir, who after hearing what we encountered decided to turn around to the hut and wait out the weather with us. It was still quite early in the day. The hike across was supposed to only take 6 hours (that is, depending on weather). So we sat, in the cold hut, and waited out the storm.
It never fully passed. The clouds started to show signs of lifting around noon, but quickly clouded over soon after. Yakov & Dmitry never returned, so it was safe to say they attempted the crossing in the fresh snow. Hadas & Adir decided to test their luck around noon. They would try to cross, and if the weather was bad, they could still turn back and spend the night at Luxmore once again.
We decided to just turn back. The crossing wasn't worth it. Despite the fact that we would never get the view you truly want with the crossing due to all the fog and thick clouds, the risk wasn't worth making the hut.
We walked all the way back to the car, leaving the hut at 1pm. The walk was long - as it can be when you retrace your steps. The forest was beautiful. The rain brought out this aquamarine moss on the trees. The forest was almost glowing.
It's the last leg of the hikes that take the life out of you sometimes. We had the final stretch from the control gates back to the car - a 45mins walk. Dreadful when you just want to be done hiking. We had stopped at the gates to replenish our energy level. I was feeling dizzy - maybe dehydration related or just low sugar. We're not sure. So that last 45mins to the car was a heavy walk.
We spent the night in town and set back out in the early afternoon to walk the track from the opposite direction. This would bring us to Moturau hut and if the Israeli groups survived the crossing, we should be able to meet up with them at this hut. We wanted to make sure they were okay. We parked at a different spot this time, a track entry point 10kms out of town. This would cut off 4.5 hours of our hiking time on the first and last day. We had a quiet 2 hour hike on the first day to the hut.
We took our time as we knew we would make the hut by mid-afternoon. We walked across some raging rivers on bridges that I do not believe should have been that bouncy. Made me realize that I don't think I like foot bridges anymore. Took a side trip to a wetlands viewpoint, only to find Canadian Geese sitting in the pond hissing and calling out to each other. Seriously - Canadian Geese? Then we crossed over the bog and learned a bit more about bogs with an information point. Did you know that people die in bogs?? These things are nasty deep. They look just like wet lowland grass with puddles around. Then you stick your trekking pole in and it just keeps sinking. The information board said that this bog in particular had plants that grew up to five feet below. It's almost like quick sand. If you stepped into a bog unknowingly, you would just start to sink and probably wouldn't be able to make your way back out. Creepy.
At the hut, we met an English gentleman who was on a day hike discovering the park. We spent some time chatting with him before the first signs of trampers appeared. He stepped outside to take some pictures as Yakov and Dmitry walked up the hut's steps. They were both surprised and happy to see us. And we were happy to see them and to hear that the other two had crossed successfully as well. The snow on the alpine crossing, we were informed, was knee deep and challenging. It took Yakov and Dmitry 9 hours to hike it.
It was raining all day, and these two were really wet. Especially Yakov, who does not have a rain coat. An almost mandatory item for NZ tramping. We offered to start a fire and I pulled out our trusty book from Holly Hut and made my way to the stove.
"If that book does not work, I have a lonely planet we can try.", Yakov offered. He was desperate for warmth. It was difficult not having a fire at Luxmore because it was so cold that night. They did have fire wood at Iris Burn hut (our next hut), so they could keep warm after their snowy excursion.
We cooked up a good fire and waited as Hadas & Adir arrived, as well as two American trampers in for the night. It was wonderful to hear about the Israelis alpine experience, but we do not regret turning back. It didn't sound pleasant. We had already been through trails like that, reliving them wasn't important.
We spent the night talking by a warm fire. It was a nice evening.
Everyone pulled mats into the main room that night to sleep by the fire. It was the warmest room of the hut.
The next day, we all went our separate ways. We said our good byes and headed up the track to Iris Burn hut, the last hut for our tramp. The next day we would return to the car.
It was a quiet day. The weather was great. We didn't bump into any hikers this day.
This part of the track brought us along the Iris Burn River and other streams that fall into the Iris Burn River. It was windy as you weaved through forest and rocky river beds. Unusual for us, all the water crossings were bridged except for three. One bridge was pulled off the waterway - possibly due to flooding concerns and possible damage to the bridge. Mind you, the water flow was quite minimal at this point. They remove bridges from certain tracks in the winter months due to damage concerns - generally on the great walks and in areas where snow melt is a great risk. What these waterways look like in heavy rain is beyond me.
The track then brought us through a gorgeous valley. Surrounded by snow capped mountains and cliffs all around. Pencil thin waterfalls falling down the mountains, through the forest you can see the water rushing down. Some waterfalls have nowhere to go, falling off the cliff side into oblivion. The wind blowing the falling water into sheets of mist further down. The sun beaming down on the snow, which had fallen to 300m the night before, barely making a dent in it. Snow melt was not a concern on this day.
It was a nice hike. Typical Fiordland Park beautiful. All the way to the hut, which sat in tussock-like long grass in a valley of mountains.
At the hut, we collected and chopped fire wood before setting out on yet another side trip, this one to Iris Burn Falls.
Through our routine we spent the evening sheltered from the rain that mildly started to fall. We started a warm fire and ended the evening playing cards on a bench aided by firelight and our lantern.
There was a bang.
Unexpected.
The sun was set now, it was close to 9pm.
Another rustle. Just outside the door.
Maybe it's a possum. They sound like birds almost at night. Maybe a night owl of some sort. I can't identify all the animals by their night calls.
Brent and I both jumped up. Staring at one of three doors to the hut. In the main room, you're surrounded by glass windows. It's a classic horror movie if it so chose to be. Out in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone reception, two people alone in a hut, laughing, having fun...then WHAM.
Your mind thinks that way sometimes.
I heard a voice. And for some reason, despite having certain fears, I will always open a door to discover what is rustling on the other side.
Blinded by a light. All I saw was a giant stick.
And a gleeful cheer from the light source.
Two Israeli guys, who had just completed the alpine crossing in now waist deep snow, so happy to be at the hut and even happier to know people were already there and had built a fire.
We cleared the bench and sat them by the fire to warm up. We spent the night stoking the fire and just being warm before all sleeping in the main room to stay warm.
In the morning, we set out early enough. 8.29am. The weather was still holding out, but it was supposed to have been raining the day before and today. We wanted to avoid the river crossings in deep flood. And today, there was no problem.
The walk was quick. Stopping at the Moturau hut for lunch before the final stretch to the car. On the last stretch, crossing paths with an old gentleman we had bumped into two days earlier. I think he just walks the track over and over again.
Once we sat ourselves in Sgt. McClaughwd, the rain started. Funny.
Back to town. Back to Rosie's. Only to find out that Rosie and Johanna (a German girl working at the backpackers for the summer) had been to Moturau hut that day and were going to write a note to us in the hut intentions book, but decided not to thinking we wouldn't see it. Yet we stopped in and read the book and that would have been hilarious. The sort of thing that would make you feel special.
Two days of rest before checking in with the doctor on Monday about the back, and possibly about a throat concern Brent and I have both developed. Alistar, Rosie's husband, is now on antibiotics for possibly strep throat, something that we might also be now battling.
I'm telling you, it's just one thing right after another.
Next track on our list is the Routeburn - but only to the second hut. The avalanche concern is quite high right now. The DOC is looking into blasting some snow caps to have the track ready to open come October 28th. In order to ensure safe hiking for the peak season. Milford is also looking really iffy right now, and Brent and I might just not bother. With 30-50cm of new snow appearing over the last few days, that hike is a huge risk right now. The DOC has flown in hut wardens during the off season just to stop people from crossing through the valley (with sheer cliffs posing avalanche concerns) and going over the pass. Despite warnings, people are still going through with these hikes.
Two days ago, a woman drowned in Egmont National Park crossing a swollen river despite being warned not to. Brent and I are looking to see if the river that took her life was the same one we turned away from that dreadful day. It was in the same area.
So, despite the alpine crossing, we have completed the Kepler track. Unfortunately, this is the most dangerous time for avalanches. Not worth our lives crossing these areas of concern. We have way too much hiking ahead of us to be risking our lives all the time.
We took five days to go up and down the trail in both directions. Funny enough, there is a race called the Kepler Challenge that takes place in early December, where racers run the Kepler track in a day. The fastest time so far has been four hours and thirty seven minutes. That's an hour for every leg of the track, that should take four days if you stay in all three huts.
Kind of puts trampers to shame.
It took us about an hour. We were about 20mins from the Mt. Luxmore junction - a side trip to the peak, in good weather you could probably enjoy beautiful panoramic views of the park. The sleet turned to snow as we climbed. Slowly there was a dusting on the ground. Then a thicker layer. Suddenly you're crossing an avalanche path in boot deep snow. My gut was turning as I looked up the mountain at the first of nine avalanche paths. There was a lot of fresh snow. The biggest concern for an avalanche occurs during or directly after new precipitation.
When we turned the corner, it was like hitting a wall. White out conditions. We could no longer see above us. The snow quickly turned to hail as the wind beat down on us with a mighty force. We couldn't face one another to speak. If you tried, you would be pelted in the face by the gale winds and the hail. It was like a blizzard from out of nowhere.
We had 8 more avalanche zones to pass through higher peaks. One alpine crossing along the ridge. Who knew how much snow had fallen that night. We weren't expecting it until the next day.
It had been just over a month since our last tramp. The mighty Queen Charlotte Track. One month and a bit since my fall and back injury, something I thought was behind me, until I started hiking this day. Plagued by illness, Brent and I just decided to hike no matter what. Neither of us feeling 100%. He had started to show signs of a nasty cold (not the flu though - so yay!). I was still on antibiotics and showing up and down signs of recovery. But we were tired of waiting, so we decided to make our way through the Kepler track. It was Monday, October 6th. We had a three night tramp ahead of us, and we were looking forward to it.
We actually lucked out quite a bit with the weather. It was a nice day on our first day of tramping. Clear views worth every agonizing footstep up the steep track to Luxmore Hut. Agonizing for both of us in different ways. Taking a month off of tramping was hard for the two of us. We are in the country for that exact reason. So needless to say, taking a month off then slapping a heavy pack onto your back is almost like the first hike all over again. You kind of remember all those muscles you had forgotten about over the last little while. By the end of the day they are screaming out to you for attention, yet you have to look past the pain, as you have several days of hiking ahead of you. No pain, no gain. At the same time, I was being re-introduced to back pain that I suffered on a fall on the QCT. At first, we both thought it was simply a bad case of bruising on the lower spine. Now, we suspect it might be more.
Needless to say, I now once again have an appointment with the Te Anau medical centre on Monday morning to have my back looked at. We both fear I may have done some deeper damage and thus far it is affecting our tramping. We just finished up a 5 day hike, but it wasn't an easy walk for me lower back. We'll keep you posted.
Despite any pain you might feel while tramping in New Zealand, there is no better pay off. The views are beyond spectacular - that is when the weather cooperates and allows you glimpses of your environment. This being our first tramp in Fiordland National Park, it surely didn't disappoint.
The ground was buoyant. There were times where you would step on the track and it would cushion your footing and bounce you right back up into another step. Amazing. Day one was a pretty big incline. After a 45minute hike from the long term car park (which we partially spent with another girl from our hostel who was out on a day hike) you enter the first part of the track. A lowland beech forest walk by lake Te Anau. Simple and easy. For an hour an a half you had a pretty easy day.
We stopped at Broad Bay, a camp site just before you start the incline. This was our first introduction to sandflies. The infamous fly, kind of like a black fly from back home, except possibly more annoying. If you are walking, they can't keep up with you. The moment you stop moving, they swarm you. We were to get used to these insects, as they enjoyed living in the park, and are found near moving water - which on the Kepler track is all around you. Also, they are a day time problem. They start to fade around dusk, which is kind of nice.
The track was beautiful and challenging. We crossed paths with a large amount of people, a mix of day hikers and possibly people just coming off the track from the other direction (it's a circuit track). We started to wonder if we were alone traveling in our direction towards Luxmore.
We pushed through from Broad Bay until just after these amazing Limestone Bluffs before we ate lunch. At the top of a set of stairs and ladder, we decided to stop and snack on our fabulous crackers and cheese. Up the stairs came another couple, Hadas & Adir from Israel. They were carrying large packs, which is our only indication if someone is going to do a day hike or an overnight tramp. They stopped to chat for a bit before heading down the trail ahead of us. Brent and I looked at one another. This is our first great walk (there are nine in NZ), this would be our 6th hut (which Brent says makes us break even - cause the hut pass is $90, and huts are generally $15/night) and it would be the first time that we have ever shared a hut with another person.
As the tramping season approaches, the trails are starting to show more signs of life.
We powered through the rest of the ascent before bumping into Hadas & Adir once again at the last sign before the hut. An indication that we were 45mins out. An unusual sign for a tramp. You don't usually get updated information as you hike. You usually only get timings for your hike at junctions.
This sign was situated at the very edge of the forest. An unusual boundary between the forest and tussock. Nothing gradual. You almost walk through a doorway of trees and bam, tussock. We're used to sub-alpine scrub or shrubs or something. This was an interesting boundary.
A windy walk through rolling tussock hills was the last leg of the tramp to Luxmore Hut. The views were stunning. The Murchison Mountains across the South Fiord were absolutely phenomenal. The view was striking and breathtaking. You hike for views like this. Pinching yourself everywhere you turn. People honestly pay a lot of money for views like this. All we had to do was buy an annual hut pass. (At least until Oct. 28th, when we can no longer tramp on the great walks without buying hut tickets - as the prices sky rocket for huts on great walks during the tramping season.)
Velvety emerald green ripples. Trees clinging to whatever stretch of limestone or clay they can find before slipping to the ground when their life can no longer be sustained. The scars of landslips left behind can be spotted from a mile away. Brown and grey rips through the green waves of the mountains. You can't put into words the way the fiords look. Sheer beauty. Tranquil world. Birds singing all around you during the day. It's quite spectacular.
And cold. It was very cold on the mountain.
We got to the hut, only to find another two hikers, Yakov and Dmitry - both from Israel (as were Hadas & Adir). This hut was quite amazing to look at. We have spent nights in great huts, but this one was constructed for a great walk. It was a two level house basically with two bunk rooms - one smaller one that held 12 people, and another large one that held possibly another 40 or so. There were porches and patios and a balcony. And the view. Well, I can't say you ever got bored of the view.
The only down side, there was no fire wood or coal. Actually, there was, but it was locked up underneath the hut - probably only to be accessed once the season started. Once the tramping season starts, the DOC puts a hut warden in every hut on the great walks. They basically live there and ensure that those paying money for the tramps are taken care of and keeping the place clean. The winter supplies had already been depleted. Probably because a lot of hikers come up to Mt. Luxmore and then return, avoiding the alpine crossing. Which means that there is a greater volume of hikers through this hut, which means no fire wood for those spending the night.
We tried, but it was a no go. Even with wind fall twigs and what have you.
Ten minutes from the hut were limestone caves that you could explore. One at a time, each group went out to explore the area. Each of us carrying torches. It was kind of neat to have a side trip/evening activity.
The sun sets much later now, quickly fading after 8.30pm. We spent the evening going through our routine. Dinner, water filtration, dishes. This evening, we spent the rest of the night with our new friends learning more about one another. That is until nightfall, where we all gave up trying to stay warm outside of our sleeping bags. We all called it a night. Brent and I stayed in the smaller bunk room, trying to keep clear or the others. I was still coughing quite a bit, and Brent was starting as well. The last thing we wanted to be was a nuisance for the others as they tried to sleep.
Morning came and we packed up as per usual. The fog was thick outside. The weather was supposed to move out of the area by 1pm. We decided we might still try the alpine crossing early in the morning.
It wasn't supposed to snow until Wednesday morning, so we thought we would just be facing rain and fog.
We were the first to set out by 9 o'clock. We like early starts to our days. It lets you spend more time resting at the hut at the end of the day. The wind had died down and it didn't look like it was raining anymore. There was frost and a bit of ice on the boardwalks around the hut and on the balcony. Signs of what was to come.
We slowly climbed up the track. Winding up through the zigzag ascent and boardwalks through the tarns. The snow started to show greater presence as we climbed. This was all fresh snow. Alarming to us. We weren't expecting it for another 24hrs. At about 1250m, we hit our white out conditions. As we always do, we stood in the situation and contemplated our next steps. Neither of us wanted to move forward. The snow was getting deeper and with the unknown above us, we didn't know how bad the avalanche danger would be.
So, we turned back. It was only 10 o'clock at this point, so we thought we could wait out the weather.
Along the way back to the hut, we bumped into to Yakov and Dmitry. Something of a side note. Both of the Israeli groups we met were young people who are either just starting school or in the middle of their studies. All have served in the army from 3.5 - 5 years. All are trained to push through any situation. All of them, not used to snow. Yakov and Dmitry are on their first tramp. Both groups carrying locater beacons and possibly feeling a false sense of security. We talked to both the boys and explained why we turned around. They decided to push ahead and see where they could reach. There are two alpine shelters on the crossing. We didn't want to risk reaching the shelter and being trapped there in bad weather. You could be trapped there until a storm pattern clears the area. Yakov was only wearing a fleece. We were worried about him.
Further down the trail, we bumped into Hadas & Adir, who after hearing what we encountered decided to turn around to the hut and wait out the weather with us. It was still quite early in the day. The hike across was supposed to only take 6 hours (that is, depending on weather). So we sat, in the cold hut, and waited out the storm.
It never fully passed. The clouds started to show signs of lifting around noon, but quickly clouded over soon after. Yakov & Dmitry never returned, so it was safe to say they attempted the crossing in the fresh snow. Hadas & Adir decided to test their luck around noon. They would try to cross, and if the weather was bad, they could still turn back and spend the night at Luxmore once again.
We decided to just turn back. The crossing wasn't worth it. Despite the fact that we would never get the view you truly want with the crossing due to all the fog and thick clouds, the risk wasn't worth making the hut.
We walked all the way back to the car, leaving the hut at 1pm. The walk was long - as it can be when you retrace your steps. The forest was beautiful. The rain brought out this aquamarine moss on the trees. The forest was almost glowing.
It's the last leg of the hikes that take the life out of you sometimes. We had the final stretch from the control gates back to the car - a 45mins walk. Dreadful when you just want to be done hiking. We had stopped at the gates to replenish our energy level. I was feeling dizzy - maybe dehydration related or just low sugar. We're not sure. So that last 45mins to the car was a heavy walk.
We spent the night in town and set back out in the early afternoon to walk the track from the opposite direction. This would bring us to Moturau hut and if the Israeli groups survived the crossing, we should be able to meet up with them at this hut. We wanted to make sure they were okay. We parked at a different spot this time, a track entry point 10kms out of town. This would cut off 4.5 hours of our hiking time on the first and last day. We had a quiet 2 hour hike on the first day to the hut.
We took our time as we knew we would make the hut by mid-afternoon. We walked across some raging rivers on bridges that I do not believe should have been that bouncy. Made me realize that I don't think I like foot bridges anymore. Took a side trip to a wetlands viewpoint, only to find Canadian Geese sitting in the pond hissing and calling out to each other. Seriously - Canadian Geese? Then we crossed over the bog and learned a bit more about bogs with an information point. Did you know that people die in bogs?? These things are nasty deep. They look just like wet lowland grass with puddles around. Then you stick your trekking pole in and it just keeps sinking. The information board said that this bog in particular had plants that grew up to five feet below. It's almost like quick sand. If you stepped into a bog unknowingly, you would just start to sink and probably wouldn't be able to make your way back out. Creepy.
At the hut, we met an English gentleman who was on a day hike discovering the park. We spent some time chatting with him before the first signs of trampers appeared. He stepped outside to take some pictures as Yakov and Dmitry walked up the hut's steps. They were both surprised and happy to see us. And we were happy to see them and to hear that the other two had crossed successfully as well. The snow on the alpine crossing, we were informed, was knee deep and challenging. It took Yakov and Dmitry 9 hours to hike it.
It was raining all day, and these two were really wet. Especially Yakov, who does not have a rain coat. An almost mandatory item for NZ tramping. We offered to start a fire and I pulled out our trusty book from Holly Hut and made my way to the stove.
"If that book does not work, I have a lonely planet we can try.", Yakov offered. He was desperate for warmth. It was difficult not having a fire at Luxmore because it was so cold that night. They did have fire wood at Iris Burn hut (our next hut), so they could keep warm after their snowy excursion.
We cooked up a good fire and waited as Hadas & Adir arrived, as well as two American trampers in for the night. It was wonderful to hear about the Israelis alpine experience, but we do not regret turning back. It didn't sound pleasant. We had already been through trails like that, reliving them wasn't important.
We spent the night talking by a warm fire. It was a nice evening.
Everyone pulled mats into the main room that night to sleep by the fire. It was the warmest room of the hut.
The next day, we all went our separate ways. We said our good byes and headed up the track to Iris Burn hut, the last hut for our tramp. The next day we would return to the car.
It was a quiet day. The weather was great. We didn't bump into any hikers this day.
This part of the track brought us along the Iris Burn River and other streams that fall into the Iris Burn River. It was windy as you weaved through forest and rocky river beds. Unusual for us, all the water crossings were bridged except for three. One bridge was pulled off the waterway - possibly due to flooding concerns and possible damage to the bridge. Mind you, the water flow was quite minimal at this point. They remove bridges from certain tracks in the winter months due to damage concerns - generally on the great walks and in areas where snow melt is a great risk. What these waterways look like in heavy rain is beyond me.
The track then brought us through a gorgeous valley. Surrounded by snow capped mountains and cliffs all around. Pencil thin waterfalls falling down the mountains, through the forest you can see the water rushing down. Some waterfalls have nowhere to go, falling off the cliff side into oblivion. The wind blowing the falling water into sheets of mist further down. The sun beaming down on the snow, which had fallen to 300m the night before, barely making a dent in it. Snow melt was not a concern on this day.
It was a nice hike. Typical Fiordland Park beautiful. All the way to the hut, which sat in tussock-like long grass in a valley of mountains.
At the hut, we collected and chopped fire wood before setting out on yet another side trip, this one to Iris Burn Falls.
Through our routine we spent the evening sheltered from the rain that mildly started to fall. We started a warm fire and ended the evening playing cards on a bench aided by firelight and our lantern.
There was a bang.
Unexpected.
The sun was set now, it was close to 9pm.
Another rustle. Just outside the door.
Maybe it's a possum. They sound like birds almost at night. Maybe a night owl of some sort. I can't identify all the animals by their night calls.
Brent and I both jumped up. Staring at one of three doors to the hut. In the main room, you're surrounded by glass windows. It's a classic horror movie if it so chose to be. Out in the middle of nowhere, no cell phone reception, two people alone in a hut, laughing, having fun...then WHAM.
Your mind thinks that way sometimes.
I heard a voice. And for some reason, despite having certain fears, I will always open a door to discover what is rustling on the other side.
Blinded by a light. All I saw was a giant stick.
And a gleeful cheer from the light source.
Two Israeli guys, who had just completed the alpine crossing in now waist deep snow, so happy to be at the hut and even happier to know people were already there and had built a fire.
We cleared the bench and sat them by the fire to warm up. We spent the night stoking the fire and just being warm before all sleeping in the main room to stay warm.
In the morning, we set out early enough. 8.29am. The weather was still holding out, but it was supposed to have been raining the day before and today. We wanted to avoid the river crossings in deep flood. And today, there was no problem.
The walk was quick. Stopping at the Moturau hut for lunch before the final stretch to the car. On the last stretch, crossing paths with an old gentleman we had bumped into two days earlier. I think he just walks the track over and over again.
Once we sat ourselves in Sgt. McClaughwd, the rain started. Funny.
Back to town. Back to Rosie's. Only to find out that Rosie and Johanna (a German girl working at the backpackers for the summer) had been to Moturau hut that day and were going to write a note to us in the hut intentions book, but decided not to thinking we wouldn't see it. Yet we stopped in and read the book and that would have been hilarious. The sort of thing that would make you feel special.
Two days of rest before checking in with the doctor on Monday about the back, and possibly about a throat concern Brent and I have both developed. Alistar, Rosie's husband, is now on antibiotics for possibly strep throat, something that we might also be now battling.
I'm telling you, it's just one thing right after another.
Next track on our list is the Routeburn - but only to the second hut. The avalanche concern is quite high right now. The DOC is looking into blasting some snow caps to have the track ready to open come October 28th. In order to ensure safe hiking for the peak season. Milford is also looking really iffy right now, and Brent and I might just not bother. With 30-50cm of new snow appearing over the last few days, that hike is a huge risk right now. The DOC has flown in hut wardens during the off season just to stop people from crossing through the valley (with sheer cliffs posing avalanche concerns) and going over the pass. Despite warnings, people are still going through with these hikes.
Two days ago, a woman drowned in Egmont National Park crossing a swollen river despite being warned not to. Brent and I are looking to see if the river that took her life was the same one we turned away from that dreadful day. It was in the same area.
So, despite the alpine crossing, we have completed the Kepler track. Unfortunately, this is the most dangerous time for avalanches. Not worth our lives crossing these areas of concern. We have way too much hiking ahead of us to be risking our lives all the time.
We took five days to go up and down the trail in both directions. Funny enough, there is a race called the Kepler Challenge that takes place in early December, where racers run the Kepler track in a day. The fastest time so far has been four hours and thirty seven minutes. That's an hour for every leg of the track, that should take four days if you stay in all three huts.
Kind of puts trampers to shame.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
I've got me some of that Influenza goodness
Right about now, I think part of me wishes I believed enough in the flu shot to have taken one before this trip.
After waking up and spending the first four hours of the day with the right side of my body in excruciating pain and congestion beating at my skull, I called home to seek advice.
Then, I listened to my parents and 'splurged' on a doctor's visit here in Te Anau (will be reimbursed by our insurance). And low and behold, influenza. But the worst of it might be over - well at least the fever, chills and hot sweats. Cause those are pleasant. :)
Oh yeah, and it's complete with an ear infection.
My prescription - antibiotics and advice to wait yet another two days before setting out on the track.
Now we see if Sunday will be our lucky day.
Fun times.
On a plus side, we've met a lot of really cool Canadians at this hostel over the last few nights. :)
And another plus - the weather is kind of crappy for the next few days - so we're really not missing out on much on the trails just yet. And we should still be able to clear the three Great Walks prior to the tramping season's opening on October 28th. But we will be in Te Anau (and area) until probably mid-November.
Tonight, more rest, and coughing. With our trusty Boysenberry Ripple Ice cream container nearby in case the coughing attacks get too strong.
Being sick at home sucks, I know. But waiting on your trip as you try to recover and gain more energy is brutal.
After waking up and spending the first four hours of the day with the right side of my body in excruciating pain and congestion beating at my skull, I called home to seek advice.
Then, I listened to my parents and 'splurged' on a doctor's visit here in Te Anau (will be reimbursed by our insurance). And low and behold, influenza. But the worst of it might be over - well at least the fever, chills and hot sweats. Cause those are pleasant. :)
Oh yeah, and it's complete with an ear infection.
My prescription - antibiotics and advice to wait yet another two days before setting out on the track.
Now we see if Sunday will be our lucky day.
Fun times.
On a plus side, we've met a lot of really cool Canadians at this hostel over the last few nights. :)
And another plus - the weather is kind of crappy for the next few days - so we're really not missing out on much on the trails just yet. And we should still be able to clear the three Great Walks prior to the tramping season's opening on October 28th. But we will be in Te Anau (and area) until probably mid-November.
Tonight, more rest, and coughing. With our trusty Boysenberry Ripple Ice cream container nearby in case the coughing attacks get too strong.
Being sick at home sucks, I know. But waiting on your trip as you try to recover and gain more energy is brutal.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Each day, we wait a little bit longer
So, minor setback on our tramping trip. We are in the ever so gorgeous town of Te Anau - the home of the DOC Fiordland National Park visitor centre - and for us, the town we chose to base ourselves out of while we tramp through the beautiful fiords.
Magical. You can't describe the mountain views from the quiet little hostel we are currently staying in. It's Rosie's backpackers. A place that only houses up to 10 people. This family has opened their home to travelers. Their bedrooms are right across from your very own.
It's been quite a wonderful time here already. Rosie and her husband Alistair are fantastic, and trampers themselves. Actually, both have served time with the DOC as hut wardens. Oh, and did I mention that Alistair is actually an avalanche detector - oh, and the best in the country?? Doesn't hurt to have an expert around.
It was quite amusing the first night we were here, and we got to talking with Alistair about tramping the Milford track. After about 15minutes of talking to us about all the avalanche paths that it crosses I think it gutted both Brent and myself. That was the point where we looked at one another from across the room and said 'we don't really have to do the Milford track'. "Oh, but it's beautiful. You'll be fine!", Alistair exclaims. Safe. Rapid snow blowing me off the side of a mountain is not what I would call fine.
But avalanche expert - amazing. Before each track, we'll get the most up to date information from Alistair. He's super.
Avalanches. The reality of the south island and the beginning of spring. Actually, snow fall can occur throughout the year, so can avalanche warnings. There is no real avoidance of the situation. Difference is that if you tramp these hikes in the peak season (starts Oct. 28th), you could be flown over (by helicopter) 'areas of concern' at your own cost. If you're that desperate to just avoid the last avalanche that came down yet eager to test your luck on the rest of the track - be my guest.
Sadly, this is the part of the country I have dreamed about for years. And to hear the reality that our hikes are extremely weather dependent is concerning. Water, we thought, would be our greatest concern. You know, torrential rains. But now, avalanche paths.
Kepler track - a gorgeous loop track that takes up to 4 days to hike. Beautiful mountain ranges overlooking two lakes in the fiords. One day takes you through 9 avalanche zones. Alistair says the snow will be off those peaks in a few days, so we'll be able to hike that one second.
You think 9 zones is bad. Wait until you hear about the Routeburn track that has 32 avalanche zones through the trail. We could hike in two days on one side, then return, drive around to the other end to hike in one day and back out. Thus safely taking us through the track without entering the dreadful 32 avalanche zones on the track. Zones we would have to cross twice as this is not a loop, and we would have to return to our car.
Then there is the Milford track, the winner with 56 avalanche zones crossing throughout the track. A simple three day tramp can be one of the most beautiful, and also most deadly tramps. 56 avalanche zones, NONE of which are monitored.
The highway from Te Anau to Milford is just over 100kms long. One of the most beautiful drives that they say could take up to a day. A highway which has a very long 'no stopping' zone, due to land slip and avalanche concerns. A highway that the country spends 1.5 Million dollars a year to monitor with avalanche teams to ensure that no lives are lost in the event of an avalanche.
The Milford Track has no funding for this type of monitoring. It would cost over 10,000$ a week to monitor that track alone. Funds which the DOC cannot afford. A conservancy already deeply suffering from insufficient funding. Instead, during the peak season, hut wardens are located in each hut, equipped with radios - and information can be given to each tramper as they pass through the area. That quite possibly saves lives, and is a much cheaper alternative.
The unfortunate reality to tramping in such a wild environment. You don't have to worry about the bears or cougars out here, but mother nature herself. As beautiful as that waterfall developing off the side of a rock face might be to a tour bus passenger, it could spell disaster for someone about to meet it on their path.
The reality of the risk. Not something that we are taking lightly, as we plan to start on a tramp that passes through no avalanche zones. You know, only the flooding zones. Good times!
Then there is our set back.
I am sick. Uber sick.
It all started on the farm. A simple cough. Thought I could shake it off, as it followed other patterns of colds I have had in the past. Then we get to Invercargill (nothing special to mention about this city really - dive like, we were in a sketchy part of town). The coughing worsened. The second day in Invercargill we decided to go for a day hike, which I ended up trying to bail out of up to 4 times due to body aches that were making it hard to walk. Fear of collapsing was in my head.
Hoped up with Advils (don't worry, I only had one - but that was enough), I had the energy to drive us to TeAnau, where I only got worse. Chills and hot sweats plagued my days and nights. I struggled to sleep through the nights. Everyone trying to provide me with the best remedies. One girl (Hannah) made me a special tea (with whiskey - heh heh), Rosie has been offering me several different types of lozenges and cough syrup (the smell didn't make me want to jump and drink it down) and hot liquids. All the while, I wonder if I am keeping anyone else up at night (although apparently the walls are almost sound proof, so no one has been hearing my helpless cough attacks through the night). The usual muscle aches from flu like illnesses.
But if I was going to be sick, this is the place to be sick in. A beautiful home where I feel at home, with a view to die for. A house completely surrounded by the fiordland national park. Gorgeous.
This has delayed our departure for two reasons. Muscle pains/energy and lung restriction. The coughing will probably linger for a few weeks (I'm susceptible to long term coughing), but when I carry a full pack on, I can sometimes feel restricted with my breathing. Deep breaths with a full pack can sometimes be painful. Not something you want to contend with on weak lungs. Then there is the fact that I probably haven't been able to carry my weight due to weakness.
It's a shame. We just spent 12 wonderful days on the farm with the McLay's where we were eating regularly and getting our bodies ready to set back out on the trails. Then I get sick and lose my appetite.
Boo.
So today was supposed to be our first day, but we will now try to leave on Friday, October 3rd. Two more nights. We'll see.
We'll hike out, return here for a night in between each hike, then set back out the next day to tackle a new trail. All this will take up at least a month. 6 full tramps - or partially attempted tramps depending on avalanche concerns. The Hump Ridge, Greenstone-Caples track, Hollyford, Routeburn, Milford and the Kepler track. Following this, we will splurge on a fabulous overnight cruise in Doubtful sound (on special this month) - one of many parts of this park that are inaccessible by foot or road.
That's the plan. Let's just see what adventures head our way! :)
Outside of that, some things that have crossed our minds over the last few days.
A shout out to the McLay clan. We were thinking about you guys when we watched Piha Rescue on Monday night. That also reminded us about some other things we did together that really meant a lot to us. This includes (but is not limited to): the Bird play with Naomi, Josiah and Susan on our second night. Brent playing cricket with Josiah, Isabel, and Esther. Watching Josiah and Reuben play cricket together. Coralie texting us as we drove through the Caitlins on our first day - we thought that was coo-el! Watching the sheep shearing. Singing choir songs with the kids at the bench - which is also why I have the "Talk to the Animals" song in my head an awful lot! Pumpkin Soup. Yummmm. :)
I tried out Huntington's key on Sgt McClaughwd the other day. Alarmingly, the car started. Which has led me to believe that manual vehicles are prime targets for theft. I believe they could start with a paper clip if someone tried.
Then again, maybe it's just our special car.
We finally made contact with the Primus reps in New Zealand and should see a new part for our camp stove show up by courier by early afternoon. Yay!!! It worked for about 4-5 meals, then pfffffft! It's a complicated stove with certain key parts unable to be taken apart except by a manufacturer. So if this part solves our problems, we're golden and could be eating hot meals in the Fiords!!! (something we actually weren't planning on - but with my cold/illness I also couldn't live off of dry noodles for too long - would be hard on me poor little throat)
Realizing that thus far, we have only spent money on THREE New Zealand 'attractions'. The caving trip (which was $125/person - but worth sooo much more), Puzzling world in Wanaka ($25 for two) and the trip up the elevator in Wanganui ($1/each). So, this helped us justify the little bit of extra money to take the Doubtful Sound cruise at the end of our time in the Fiordland NP. That and it was my #1 destination in this park, but I was silly and never realized you couldn't access it by any track. Oops.
We're off. To bed. Time to hack up a lung in a horizontal position.
Oh yeah - I'm at the state of heaving with the coughing. Just so you understand the severity of my problems. Ugh. Let's pray that in two days we're both fit enough to start the tramping. Thank God, Brent's not feeling sick yet. I think he might be immune to whatever I have - otherwise, I would imagine he'd be feeling it by now.
After the Fiords, we're off to Stewart Island for a ten day hike.
This time, it's all about the tramping!
I love it!!!
Magical. You can't describe the mountain views from the quiet little hostel we are currently staying in. It's Rosie's backpackers. A place that only houses up to 10 people. This family has opened their home to travelers. Their bedrooms are right across from your very own.
It's been quite a wonderful time here already. Rosie and her husband Alistair are fantastic, and trampers themselves. Actually, both have served time with the DOC as hut wardens. Oh, and did I mention that Alistair is actually an avalanche detector - oh, and the best in the country?? Doesn't hurt to have an expert around.
It was quite amusing the first night we were here, and we got to talking with Alistair about tramping the Milford track. After about 15minutes of talking to us about all the avalanche paths that it crosses I think it gutted both Brent and myself. That was the point where we looked at one another from across the room and said 'we don't really have to do the Milford track'. "Oh, but it's beautiful. You'll be fine!", Alistair exclaims. Safe. Rapid snow blowing me off the side of a mountain is not what I would call fine.
But avalanche expert - amazing. Before each track, we'll get the most up to date information from Alistair. He's super.
Avalanches. The reality of the south island and the beginning of spring. Actually, snow fall can occur throughout the year, so can avalanche warnings. There is no real avoidance of the situation. Difference is that if you tramp these hikes in the peak season (starts Oct. 28th), you could be flown over (by helicopter) 'areas of concern' at your own cost. If you're that desperate to just avoid the last avalanche that came down yet eager to test your luck on the rest of the track - be my guest.
Sadly, this is the part of the country I have dreamed about for years. And to hear the reality that our hikes are extremely weather dependent is concerning. Water, we thought, would be our greatest concern. You know, torrential rains. But now, avalanche paths.
Kepler track - a gorgeous loop track that takes up to 4 days to hike. Beautiful mountain ranges overlooking two lakes in the fiords. One day takes you through 9 avalanche zones. Alistair says the snow will be off those peaks in a few days, so we'll be able to hike that one second.
You think 9 zones is bad. Wait until you hear about the Routeburn track that has 32 avalanche zones through the trail. We could hike in two days on one side, then return, drive around to the other end to hike in one day and back out. Thus safely taking us through the track without entering the dreadful 32 avalanche zones on the track. Zones we would have to cross twice as this is not a loop, and we would have to return to our car.
Then there is the Milford track, the winner with 56 avalanche zones crossing throughout the track. A simple three day tramp can be one of the most beautiful, and also most deadly tramps. 56 avalanche zones, NONE of which are monitored.
The highway from Te Anau to Milford is just over 100kms long. One of the most beautiful drives that they say could take up to a day. A highway which has a very long 'no stopping' zone, due to land slip and avalanche concerns. A highway that the country spends 1.5 Million dollars a year to monitor with avalanche teams to ensure that no lives are lost in the event of an avalanche.
The Milford Track has no funding for this type of monitoring. It would cost over 10,000$ a week to monitor that track alone. Funds which the DOC cannot afford. A conservancy already deeply suffering from insufficient funding. Instead, during the peak season, hut wardens are located in each hut, equipped with radios - and information can be given to each tramper as they pass through the area. That quite possibly saves lives, and is a much cheaper alternative.
The unfortunate reality to tramping in such a wild environment. You don't have to worry about the bears or cougars out here, but mother nature herself. As beautiful as that waterfall developing off the side of a rock face might be to a tour bus passenger, it could spell disaster for someone about to meet it on their path.
The reality of the risk. Not something that we are taking lightly, as we plan to start on a tramp that passes through no avalanche zones. You know, only the flooding zones. Good times!
Then there is our set back.
I am sick. Uber sick.
It all started on the farm. A simple cough. Thought I could shake it off, as it followed other patterns of colds I have had in the past. Then we get to Invercargill (nothing special to mention about this city really - dive like, we were in a sketchy part of town). The coughing worsened. The second day in Invercargill we decided to go for a day hike, which I ended up trying to bail out of up to 4 times due to body aches that were making it hard to walk. Fear of collapsing was in my head.
Hoped up with Advils (don't worry, I only had one - but that was enough), I had the energy to drive us to TeAnau, where I only got worse. Chills and hot sweats plagued my days and nights. I struggled to sleep through the nights. Everyone trying to provide me with the best remedies. One girl (Hannah) made me a special tea (with whiskey - heh heh), Rosie has been offering me several different types of lozenges and cough syrup (the smell didn't make me want to jump and drink it down) and hot liquids. All the while, I wonder if I am keeping anyone else up at night (although apparently the walls are almost sound proof, so no one has been hearing my helpless cough attacks through the night). The usual muscle aches from flu like illnesses.
But if I was going to be sick, this is the place to be sick in. A beautiful home where I feel at home, with a view to die for. A house completely surrounded by the fiordland national park. Gorgeous.
This has delayed our departure for two reasons. Muscle pains/energy and lung restriction. The coughing will probably linger for a few weeks (I'm susceptible to long term coughing), but when I carry a full pack on, I can sometimes feel restricted with my breathing. Deep breaths with a full pack can sometimes be painful. Not something you want to contend with on weak lungs. Then there is the fact that I probably haven't been able to carry my weight due to weakness.
It's a shame. We just spent 12 wonderful days on the farm with the McLay's where we were eating regularly and getting our bodies ready to set back out on the trails. Then I get sick and lose my appetite.
Boo.
So today was supposed to be our first day, but we will now try to leave on Friday, October 3rd. Two more nights. We'll see.
We'll hike out, return here for a night in between each hike, then set back out the next day to tackle a new trail. All this will take up at least a month. 6 full tramps - or partially attempted tramps depending on avalanche concerns. The Hump Ridge, Greenstone-Caples track, Hollyford, Routeburn, Milford and the Kepler track. Following this, we will splurge on a fabulous overnight cruise in Doubtful sound (on special this month) - one of many parts of this park that are inaccessible by foot or road.
That's the plan. Let's just see what adventures head our way! :)
Outside of that, some things that have crossed our minds over the last few days.
A shout out to the McLay clan. We were thinking about you guys when we watched Piha Rescue on Monday night. That also reminded us about some other things we did together that really meant a lot to us. This includes (but is not limited to): the Bird play with Naomi, Josiah and Susan on our second night. Brent playing cricket with Josiah, Isabel, and Esther. Watching Josiah and Reuben play cricket together. Coralie texting us as we drove through the Caitlins on our first day - we thought that was coo-el! Watching the sheep shearing. Singing choir songs with the kids at the bench - which is also why I have the "Talk to the Animals" song in my head an awful lot! Pumpkin Soup. Yummmm. :)
I tried out Huntington's key on Sgt McClaughwd the other day. Alarmingly, the car started. Which has led me to believe that manual vehicles are prime targets for theft. I believe they could start with a paper clip if someone tried.
Then again, maybe it's just our special car.
We finally made contact with the Primus reps in New Zealand and should see a new part for our camp stove show up by courier by early afternoon. Yay!!! It worked for about 4-5 meals, then pfffffft! It's a complicated stove with certain key parts unable to be taken apart except by a manufacturer. So if this part solves our problems, we're golden and could be eating hot meals in the Fiords!!! (something we actually weren't planning on - but with my cold/illness I also couldn't live off of dry noodles for too long - would be hard on me poor little throat)
Realizing that thus far, we have only spent money on THREE New Zealand 'attractions'. The caving trip (which was $125/person - but worth sooo much more), Puzzling world in Wanaka ($25 for two) and the trip up the elevator in Wanganui ($1/each). So, this helped us justify the little bit of extra money to take the Doubtful Sound cruise at the end of our time in the Fiordland NP. That and it was my #1 destination in this park, but I was silly and never realized you couldn't access it by any track. Oops.
We're off. To bed. Time to hack up a lung in a horizontal position.
Oh yeah - I'm at the state of heaving with the coughing. Just so you understand the severity of my problems. Ugh. Let's pray that in two days we're both fit enough to start the tramping. Thank God, Brent's not feeling sick yet. I think he might be immune to whatever I have - otherwise, I would imagine he'd be feeling it by now.
After the Fiords, we're off to Stewart Island for a ten day hike.
This time, it's all about the tramping!
I love it!!!
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